Europe “got sick” with Asia long time ago while the trend for Asian cuisine peaked in 2018 and since then has gained a leading position in gastronomy.
Therefore, the opening of KOJI in Moscow confidently experimenting with the cuisine of China and Indonesia, has become another highlight event in the gastronomic life of the city.
Secret Cipher
The new restaurant from Lucky Group has taken its own special niche in Kalashny Lane situated in the central part of the city. At KOJI, the main specialties are Peking duck, Hong Kong dim sum, wontons, as well as classic oshizushi in handmade wooden oshibako box.
The name KOJI (from the Japanese “kōji”) literally means “tasty and healthy mold” or in other words the mold culture obtained from the fermentation of grain (eg rice) is one of the key ingredients in Asian cuisine. In KOJI it used to make marinades for fish, meat and vegetables, in preparation of sauces and even in fermentation of some ingredients for cocktails.
Signature of Glen Ballis
In the Photo: Chef & restaurateur Glen Ballis
Glen Ballis, who, along with the other projects is the KOJI brand chef, was awarded the title of the most productive foreign chef in Russia in 2021. Even those who are far from the world of haute cuisine know his name. Glen came in Russia more than 15 years ago and became a “fresh Asian wind”, a tsunami for Moscow’s conservative gastronomy. “Gastronomy will become closer” — this was and remains the motto of Glen.
“Opening KOJI alongside our other Asian-themed Lucky Izakaya project was a completely deliberate decision”, — says Glen Ballis. — Lucky Izakaya has a completely different style, the emphasis is more on Japan, and the place itself is especially loved by young people. KOJI is calmer, more compact, more respectable. The average check is also slightly higher. The interior is thought out to the smallest details — stone floor, copper ceiling, natural silk lamps. A music system was made especially for Koji in London”.
Everything in KOJI interior speaks of respectability, gloss and luxury — the walls and furniture of the ground floor are made of solid mahogany. Dim light from the lamps covered with natural red silk disposes for both business and private negotiations. When warm weather, wide panoramic window is opened.
An interesting detail of the restroom: the glass wall by the sink allows you to see what is happening in the kitchen, as well as hanging ducks which are going to be served later. Service is fast and attentive, no guest is left out of sight. However, it is better to book a table in advance: at 2pm KOJI is already full.
Tiny Asia
Oshizushi Bluefin Tuna — 10 pcs (2100 rub.) or 16 pcs (2900 rub.). The perfect combination of slightly warm rice and fresh fish.
Salmon Tataki (650 rub.) — Served warm over mild & creamy mango sauce. Ideal as a starter for aperitif cocktails and Asian beers.
You should also pay attention to the KOJI cocktail card: it was developed by a team of professionals in the person of the chef bartender Maxim Gorelik and bar manager Artur Mirasov.
Many cocktails use kōji mold as well as unusual combinations with traditional sake. The names match the Asian mood: Tsaihe Spritz, Teguay Gimlet, Han Sour and others.
Main dish for the company is Peking duck (4450 rub).
Although the dish is positioned as “for two”, it is quite enough for a company of 3 or even 4 people. Duck is served with the extra thin wheat flapjacks, traditional sweet and sour sauce and thinly sliced cucumber and green onion. The duck is cooked for over 10 hours and during the process is stuffed with lemongrass, which addsa subtle citrus flavor to the meat.
Glen Ballis: “In Australia, where I come from, Asian food is very popular — Chinese, Korean. And in Russia too, there are chefs who can present it correctly to the fullest. For example, the KOJI Chef Vasily Zaitsev has trained in Hong Kong and Beijing, traveled to Southeast Asia. He has his own special style that appeals to me. KOJI’s specialties require specific tools — for example, we have a special oven for Peking duck, as well as a special pan and serving dish for it”.
Octopus Tempura (1600 rub.) — it’s difficult to find a juicy octopus in Moscow, but in KOJI is quite possible. The secret is in a special breading without the addition of eggs, which preserves its crustiness as well the juiciness of the meat. When serving, the octopus is cut in front of you with special scissors, and the pieces should be dipped in a sauce based on sake, ginger and daikon.
DIM SUM
In the Photo: Dumplings with crab (990 rub.)
Dim sum is very popular in the restaurant — the reason is the very tender and thin dough with variations of juicy fillings.
In the Photo: Bao bun with wild mushrooms (600 rub.)
In the Photo: Koji roll (890 rub.)
KOJI Sweets
Dessert menu of KOJI is very laconic, but there is some interesting items to become delighted with.
In the Photo: Green duck (850 rub.) — undoubtedly the most photogenic KOJI dessert.
Handmade, extra creamy and almost “raw” chocolate from natural cocoa beans is Nama (300 rub.): Milk, Spicy or Coconut.
In the Photo: Koji mochi mango / strawberries / raspberries (400 rub.) — this kind of motchi is not quite ordinary: the thinnest rice cover hides an airy filling of mascarpone cheese and fresh raspberries.
KOJI
Address: Kalashnyy Pereulok, 9, Moscow
Opening hours: Sun-Thu 12:00 – 00:00;
Fri-Sat 12:00 – 02:00SuSun-Thu
Contact: +7 (495) 818 77 88
Instagram: @koji__restaurant
Editor-in-chief: Patricia Kolari
Text Writer: Elena Zlotnikova
Technical Director: Evgeny Fedorov Photos: EATWEEK
