Anatoly Kazakov, the Chef and mastermind behind Selfie, Gvidon, and Ikra restaurants, ignited his gastronomic odyssey at a young age, encountering obstacles along the way. Yet, his meteoric rise to prominence was nothing short of extraordinary. Kazakov revolutionized Moscow’s restaurant scene by championing the principles of “seasonality,” showcasing the use of local products, and offering unparalleled dining experiences.
From a humble 15-year-old boy toiling in a Soviet restaurant kitchen, Kazakov’s remarkable journey culminated in his recognition as an esteemed chef with various accolades being at the helm of renowned establishments.
We met Anatoly on the day when, unexpectedly, winter returned to Moscow in April. Amidst the festivities celebrating Alexander Ovechkin’s record-breaking achievement, the chef maintained a cheerful and composed demeanor. Despite the chaos caused by the weather outside, it seemed as though he had emerged from a portal to Bali, radiating an aura of calm and positivity. Intrigued by his ability to maintain such a composed presence in the midst of the metropolis, we sought to understand his secret to staying centered.
What activities help you unwind, considering the demanding nature of your job?
– Sport holds a significant place in my life. It instills internal and self-discipline, which later translates into positive relationships with partners and fosters a sense of responsibility. Discipline is the driving force behind my actions, ensuring that I stay on track. For the past 12 years, I have been an ardent hockey enthusiast, attending games on weekends and even participating in Hockey Medialiga. Former hockey player Igor Larionov, a two-time Olympic champion and now a winemaker and restaurateur, used to coach us. Naturally, I expressed my congratulations to Sasha Ovechkin on his remarkable achievement and promptly sent him a message, he’s our pride and inspiration.
“Sports serve as a source of emotional relief for me. On the ice, I can release a significant amount of negative emotions, engage in physical exertion, and even express myself freely without fear of censure. Afterward, we can maintain a friendly relationships. I also enjoy running, which I consider a form of meditation. A few days ago, I was running through the woods, with my favorite Daft Punk playing in the earphones. As I ran, I couldn’t help but smile and feel a sense of pure joy. For me, sports are not a burden or an obligation; they are a source of pleasure. They are just as enjoyable as eating healthy and consuming high-quality foods. I appreciate the quality and “clean” nature of foods, as well as their natural flavors. Taking care of our bodies is essential for aging gracefully.”
You’re renowned for your talent in discovering hidden culinary treasures. Could you share your favorite products and the reasons behind your love for them? Are there any products that you actively steer clear of?
– My favorites are seasonal products that are available at the moment. I eagerly anticipate the arrival of new seasonals, such as smelt, various sprouts, strawberries, and wild edibles. I meticulously plan my menu to incorporate seasonal products. We have a well-established methodology that enables us to predict the appearance of specific products within two weeks. Subsequently, I create a menu tailored to cater to these products. We have been diligently maintaining seasonality calendars and actively collaborating with farmers. In fact, we are currently ahead of the curve in terms of seasonality. We source rhubarb from Uzbekistan, where it arrives earlier than anywhere else. As for products I avoid on the menu, there are none. In the past, I encountered unfamiliar ingredients that I struggled to cook. However, I embraced the challenge of discovering new ways to prepare them. Now, I have no items that I deliberately exclude from my menu. Instead, I prefer to avoid low-quality and out-of-season ingredients, striving to minimize their use.
Some people associate the restaurant “Gvidon” with a “seafood” restaurant, while others believe it’s an homage to “Russian cuisine”. Some even call it a purely French restaurant. But what is it truly?
– “Gvidon” is a restaurant that offers “French-inspired” cuisine. When creating the menu, we consider our guests’ preferences and leave them the freedom to choose. We don’t force people to adapt to our tastes; instead, we aim to provide them with a taste of “super-seasonal products.” We select the most intriguing wild fruits, including sorrel, morels, and strawberries. Pure flavor is an expensive segment, but our guests have already had a great experience with fine dining. They are accustomed to eating only the freshest fish and appreciate pure, unadulterated taste. Unlike middle-segment restaurants that prioritize hearty portions and heavy sauces, Gvidon is an “evening-style” restaurant. People come here to savor pure flavors. While we don’t advocate for a complete avoidance of sauces and seasonings, we do offer vegan options and an interesting Lenten menu that many people enjoy.
Gvidon
Your journey in the restaurant business has been incredibly captivating, akin to a thrilling TV series…
– Yes, I embarked on this profession at the tender age of 15, becoming a trainee in the renowned kitchen of the Cosmos Hotel. However, many aspects of the industry still adhered to Soviet traditions, and the dynamics between chefs and customers were primarily measured by monetary exchange. Chefs were often stereotyped as alcoholics and thieves. For instance, I once carried a rolled-up uniform in my backpack, and my friends couldn’t resist teasing me, assuming I had stolen something from the kitchen. Unfortunately, this attitude was prevalent in many restaurants, where customers were viewed as mere moneybags, to whom stale goods and illiquid assets could be sold. In 2005, I decided to embark on a journey to Italy, where I witnessed a stark contrast in restaurant management practices. In Russia, the restaurant administration often lacked knowledge of the kitchen staff. Conversely, the European approach emphasizes a personal connection between the management and each employee. The director is personally responsible for everything, from cleaning the premises to meeting guests. This sense of responsibility fosters a positive work environment, and subordinates naturally emulate their superiors.
“My primary satisfaction lies in the happiness of our guests and the satisfaction of our team, who thrive on their passion for their work. In a restaurant, the immediate gratification of serving a dish and receiving positive feedback is a constant source of joy. However, there are also intricate processes to observe, such as the kitchen staff’s interactions and problem-solving skills. A chef should possess both creative and management skills, embodying both the role of a creator and a leader simultaneously. I firmly believe in the importance of providing comprehensive training to our staff before expecting them to excel. However, once they have the necessary skills, I encourage them to push their boundaries and reach their full potential. Negligence is not tolerated in my work environment.”
How do you feel about comments from guests or colleagues?
– Healthy criticism should be welcomed and it’s actively used in our restaurants, including Ikra and Gvidon. Feedback from guests is a quick and cost-effective way to improve our services without spending a lot on marketing or conducting lengthy, expensive research. This is precisely what makes the restaurant business so rewarding. While it’s important to have a large number of positive reviews and impressions, let’s focus on the 10% of invaluable experiences and direct feedback from people that truly matter. As someone who is always striving for self-improvement, I believe that constant improvement is essential in all aspects of life, including the restaurant business. This applies not only to the kitchen but also to the client experience. I am a lifelong learner, and it seems to me that I still have much to learn about gastronomy. In my opinion, the chef’s profession requires a constant thirst for knowledge and the ability to ask insightful questions and learn new things. Gastronomy is a dynamic field that constantly evolves, and chefs must be “hungry for knowledge” to stay ahead.
You do actively collaborate with farmers — how do these relationships develop?
– Working with farmers is not quite about market transactions; it’s about forming a genuine partnership. I occasionally provide financial assistance to farmers, recognizing the challenges they face. Unlike stores or distributors, farmers are responsible for their operations but lack the same level of protection. They may encounter adverse weather conditions or crop losses due to unforeseen circumstances, such as natural disasters or poor harvests. Our goal is to provide farmers with sufficient quantities of their produce so that they can fully realize their efforts. For instance, during the lockdown in 2020, we organized deliveries from our restaurants to assist farmers in selling their crops. Additionally, we compliment our guests on farm products whenever we notice any leftovers. By increasing the turnover of the product, we aim to generate income for the farmers. Afterward, they become loyal suppliers, appreciating our support during difficult times. In return, they offer us pure, unique products. We strive to highlight this aspect by using storytelling and sharing the origin of each vegetable we source.
“Farmers grow a lot of rutabagas and goatgrass for us. I pay close attention to reviving disappearing ingredients. For me, this is a significant cultural layer of gastronomic history. Regrettably, the Soviet food industry erased even pre-revolutionary names, not only traditions of using various products (for instance, Soviet people were often unaware of what rhubarb was). Anastas Mikoyan attempted to eliminate all “non-communist names.” For example, before the revolution, Borodinsky bread was known as monastery bread. Additionally, in tsarist Russia, there were two factories simultaneously producing canned artichokes, while village houses and estates grew chicory both above and underground. There were many items on our menu before the revolution, but they were lost, and our task as cooks is to attempt to bring them back. We must highlight intriguing topics for people, as food is also a catalyst for thought and reflection. It should not be perceived as a lecture format, but the semantic weight is crucial. Subsequently, a passionate individual becomes our ambassador. In 2018, I presented the set “Edible-Non-Edible,” which introduced the recycle format to many people for the first time. It included things like oilcake and cabbage stalks. In a sense, we were returning to a time when everything was utilized.”
Do you have a secret to recovering quickly, or a ‘place of strength’ where you ‘recharge your batteries’?
– My ‘secret place’ is a 130-year-old house in the Yaroslavl region. We bought it for my grandmother in the early 80s. It’s my ‘little abode.’ Phone and internet connection is lost there, and you’re the only person for 10 kilometers. You enter a very peaceful environment, and you get energized. I can spend just one night there, but it feels like a real vacation. I find solutions to any problems, let go of them, and feel rejuvenated. I love walking there and going to the river. There’s a Marketplace point in the neighboring settlement, so if I need to fix something, I order building materials there. There’s also a brigade that helps me keep the house in good condition. Even in Bali or the Maldives, I can’t relax as much as I do there. I lie on the beach and dream when the weather gets warmer and I rush back to my house. I go there alone, but if I come with friends, I can’t relax. I also love animals. In the country house where we live, I have a full zoo. There’s a 10-year-old Jack Russell Terrier, two cats. My son had been asking for a cat for a year, so we got one. Surprisingly, all these ‘stray circus’ animals get along well in our country house.
The new chef is a celebrity, and how important is it for him to maintain social media presence?
– You can only be active on social media if it’s organic. Sometimes, I’m ‘lazy’ or don’t have enough time to post constantly. You can become a star on the Internet, but only if you’re willing to develop and improve your skills. Many of us attend personal growth courses, but we don’t focus on developing our own qualities and talents. I’m an introvert, and social interaction is challenging for me. I approach social networking based on my mood. Even attending Chef’s Table services in Moscow can be a struggle for me. After all, you not only need to cook but also to convey your message effectively. I don’t write lengthy texts on social networks, and in the ‘chef’ format, I interact with my guests just like I do in real life. I believe honesty is key when communicating with people organically.
“Most of my audience consists of individuals from the industry or those closely associated with it, people with whom I interact regularly. While social media undoubtedly serves as an additional sales tool, it also acts as a powerful motivator. For instance, numerous individuals express that my physical activity, healthy habits, and healthy eating practices inspire them. It’s certainly gratifying to be regarded as an ‘ambassador’ of the appropriate lifestyle for someone like me.”
Text: Elena Zlotnikova
Photo courtesy: EATWEEKGUIDE
