It’s breakfast time at Domaine des Etangs. We tread lightly across the 13th-century chateau in search of nourishment to fuel the days’ activities. Above head, 7 uniquely decorated rooms and suites armed with Hermès chairs, eclectic collectors art pieces and pillows so dreamily soft that a chance of sleepy heads still caressing them at 9 in the morning is most plausible.
We managed to avoid a ruckus, though let out a chuckle or two when we stumbled upon an ethereally lit kitchen that demands you live out a ‘Stepford wife’ moment — from the homemade jams, perfectly marbled cakes, creamy eggs cooked à la minute on a traditional poêle à bois. We live out the dream in the sun-drenched parlour, rounding off the morning debauchery with coffees and freshly squeezed orange juice.
Located in the Charente-Limousine region, the word ‘luxury’ doesn’t always come to play in the land of shepherds, cognac makers and farmers. For what its worth, this is the real France. A sprawling 2500 acre estate centered by a 13th century castle, crowned with Victorian turrets that reflects the thriving past of French noblesse yet efficacious in stripping away at its slightly repulsive aristocratic culture.
Just check in with grounds keeper of the Domaine, Jean-François Magnan who aside from being excellent at storytelling, is phenomenal with a wide range of seasonal foraging — chestnuts, ceps and animal spotting; his observations about the local dragonfly population abetting the Observatory of Agricultural biodiversity.
He tells us that the chateau was erected more than 700 years ago by the medieval knights of Chasteignier de la Roche-Posay and once served as a stronghold between Limoges and Angoulême. The Primat family took over in 1986 and employed it as their private summer home till it joined the Auberge Resorts Collection in the early spring of 2023.
Today, with 7 rooms in the main Chateau, 4 multi-story suites located in the long farmhouse barn and 6 far-scattered Metairie farmhouse cottages, the hotel defines a kind of French pastoral paradise.
Why Book?
Domaine des Etangs experience expertly layers tasteful luxury with unpretentious hospitality. It’s a welcome change from the stiff, over-the-top prissy 5-star hotels in the big cities and draws you in with a more relaxed and natural approach.
Walk in the forest (where you might chance upon scuff marks of wild boars), pull into a glade of your choice in one of their hybrid cars with a picnic basket in tow, pedal past fresh pastures on idyllic wicker basket bikes, or take your chance on their man-made lake with a rowboat. Just be mindful that you’re sharing the grounds with 500 Limousin cows and 1 peacock.
Best season to visit?
Our visit to Domaine des Etangs occured in the dawn of autumn, it was a portentous inflection point in the seasons. One that played the chart topping hits, ‘Walking on Sunshine’ and ‘Rainy days and Mondays’ back to back. It was a vibe.
Somewhere between observing the dancing lights in the enchanting forest, picnicking on lush pastures with our sumptuous picnic spread and being rained in rudely. We found a multitude of cool things to do, so even the most persevering of characters can drop in and tune out. Take a plunge in their heated indoor pool; cast one’s hook; read a book (or take a nap) in the velvet cushioned dens of the library; pamper yourself at the old mill converted spa.
It’s obvious that the domaine is game on rizzing up the kids as well, there’s a playground with a treehouse, a 50-foot zipline, and in-ground trampolines; a vast beamed attic filled with board games, snooker and trunks packed with fancy dress costumes.
Suddenly, in our hierarchy of needs, connectivity becomes very low on the pecking order.
What do we taste?
Elevating the Domaine des Etangs experience is its signature restaurant Dyades which will sweep you off your feet with its holistic, flexible and more importantly tantalising catering service.
From breakfast of champions to tasty picnics on manicured lawns in a wicker basket — think baguettes chock full of home-cured trout and greens and a parfait glass of gorgeously layered chocolate mousse. The Domaine values the discretion of its guests and we’re pretty sure meals are allowed round the clock, wherever you please.
Come nightfall, the restaurant housed in the longère sling out fashionable plates and provoking wines to the soundtrack of gurgling babies (sometimes) and 90s hits. The tasting menu (served from Wednesday to Saturday only) name checks Neuvic and Perigord and concludes with a citrus Pavlova that’s disarmingly invigorating. Led by the young and talented Chef Matthieu Pasgrimaud, the kitchen also dishes out earnest, fashionably austere options such as the Côte de boeuf and Poulet rôti graced with vegetables from their very own potager.
P.S. The Restaurant is opened to the public too, so don’t be shy.
Domaine des Etangs
Address: Domaine des Etangs, 16310 Massignac, France
Instagram: @domainedesetangsauberge
Text: Sihan Lee
Photo courtesy: Sihan Lee
