Walking along the most central street of Moscow Nikolskaya, you can find a piece of real France: the flagship restaurant of the world famous luxury confectionery brand Ladurée located in a historic building opposite GUM.
Ladurée known as one of the oldest confectionery houses in France founded in 1862 by Louis Ernest Ladure, gained worldwide popularity because of the Macaron invented by Ladurée’s successor Pierre Defontaine: it became the iconic dessert of the confectionery and the symbol of France.
Breath of Paris
Today Ladurée is famous for its classy sweets, exclusive chocolate, jams, unique blends of tea, as well as exquisite accessories, souvenirs, books and even cosmetics and perfumes.
All these things you can easily find at flagship restaurant on Nikolskaya street: its interiors and surroundings fully transfer pure French atmosphere of the brand. Another place to enjoy Ladurée in Moscow is small and cozy boutique on Malaya Bronnaya street.
Interiors of Nikolskaya divided into three parts, each of which has its own specific style. The first is burgundy-red Castiglione named after the famous courtesan and mistress of Napoleon III Countess de Castiglione. Low tables, boudoir chairs with fringe, stucco molding with antique motifs. The second is Zuber, the embodiment of French luxury: hand-painted Zuber brand wallpapers with two centuries of history, a massive mirror, large crystal chandeliers, velvet chairs, marble tables. The third VIP room in painted in light pink colors with elegant stucco is separated from the rest of space by dense curtains and perfect for various private events or a secret date.
But nevertheless, the main pride and zest of the Moscow branch is the unique line of author’s desserts by Laduréebrand chef in Russia Godfroy Leinekugel. During our meeting with Godfroy we decided to find out what makes the confectionery in Moscow special and unlike the others.
The art of admiration
EATWEEK: Godfroy, please tell how and when did you get the idea to become a pastry chef?
Godefroy Leynekyugel: When I was 12, I first had this idea. But my dad did not allow me to go to confectioners, he believed that this was not serious for a man. A man must serve the army and choose a real male profession. And when it came time to apply to educational institutions, I filled out all the documents, signing them on behalf of my father. When he found out, he was terribly angry and I got a lot of it. But after some time, when I nevertheless became a pastry chef, he realized that this was my calling and, of course, is now proud of me.
At the photo: Vanilla Tartlet
EW: Probably you most loved sweets in your childhood, since you chose this profession for yourself?
GL: Oddly enough, but I’m not a fan of sweets, I will eat fish or meat dishes with great pleasure instead. But I really like the process of creating desserts, I like to come up with new tastes and delight our guests.
One of the legendary pastries that can be found in every Ladurée pastry shop around the world is Ispahan (690 rubles). Two big macaroon halves with butter cream, lychee rose and elegant decoration — fresh raspberries and rose petals.
The second bestseller instantly associated with Paris is Vanilla-Caramel Sant Onore (690 rubles) made from puff pastry with two types of cream: Diplomat and Chantilly.
EW: Which dessert you’ve ever tasted strongly delighted you and remained in your memory?
GL: Perhaps my grandmother’s chocolate tastes is a bit like a brownie. It’s very simple, but so delicious that for me it’s the best dessert to this day. I always compare the taste with it while creating my chocolate desserts.
Indeed, after trying Mac Chocolate (590 rubles), you can fall in love with it from the first fork. Chocolate macaroon biscuit with Sibayon mousse, chocolate cream and mirrored dark chocolate glaze.
EW: Which of your current desserts is the most difficult?
GL: Matryoshka. It took enough time to achieve the desired balance and taste. My sous-chef helped me a lot in this.
Religios Matryoshka with cloudberries (590 rubles) is the most “Russian” dessert at Ladurée. Profiteroles with custard, fresh raspberries and “royal” cloudberry compote without any doubt have become the most desired choice among tourists.
Godfroy Leinekugel: “When I’m creating the desserts, I am primarily inspired by the environment: nature, people, communication — this gives rise to new thoughts and ideas.”
According to Godfroy, his favorite dessert among the variety of Ladurée is Honey cake. Delicate honey sponge with cream layer and dulcey chocolate cream decorated with elegant honey tulle (390 rubles): as if all the love of the pastry chef to his job was reflected in it.
Same as with all other desserts, be it Macaron Cocoa Pineapple (550 rub.) with a cream layer, sliced pineapple and raspberry berries, Vanilla Tartlet (420 rub.) with pecans praliné, vanilla biscuit and white chocolate or Pistachio eclair (390 rubles) from custard dough with pistachio cream covered with pistachio fondant.
At the photo: Pistachio eclair
EW: Godfroy, you are a true Frenchman, but live and work in Moscow. How do you like the city atmosphere?
GL: I really like the city itself and, in particular, the Moscow Ladurée confectionery. I am glad to work here rather than in America or Dubai. I also have a great opportunity to speak Russian, it’s a beautiful and multifaceted language.
The quaint flavor combination is revealed in Melfey Rose-chocolate (690 rubles): caramelized puff pastry with cocoa, rose Diplomat cream and chocolate ganache.
EW: A traditional question: what are your creative plans for the nearest future and what updates await guests?
GL: Now after the winter menu spring-summer updates are on their way, with berry accent. Every three to four months we renew the assortment. By Easter we’ll definitely prepared Easter cakes, the recipe for which I worked out for a month. A genuine Russian Easter cake with raisins, as well as with candied fruit and chocolate-nut flavor.. Also in my plans to create new Russian desserts with a French image, for example, milky mousse cake “Ptichka”.
Aristocratic Breakfast
But is it only worth going to Ladurée for the sweet masterpieces? After a spring morning walk at the Red Square or an early shopping in GUM shopping mall there is another reason to get into this aristocratic place: a delicious and healthy breakfast, which along with the main menu of the restaurant is offered all day long.
You can add any filling of your choice to the Benedict egg (390 rubles) on a crispy brioche: salmon, avocado, spinach, bacon or shrimp (+250 rubles). The final touch is a warm Hollandaise sauce which is added just before serving.
Omelettes as in France are in great demand here. Signature Ladurée like a “briquette” with a juicy filling: mushrooms, ham, cheese, sweet tomatoes and herbs (670 rubles).
A lighter, but no less savoury version is Ladurée White Omelette (590 rubles) with goat cheese and stewed spinach. A plate with high protein boost for the whole day.
Vitamin bowl with tuna, avocado and edamame beans (790 rubles) is a perfect option for a light and healthy breakfast.
Any of the salty dishes is complemented by a basket with fragrant fresh buns & butter or olive oil to your choice.
Mango-passion fruit smoothie (450 rubles) or Strawberry-pomegranate (410 rubles) will add even more morning energy, while Chia pudding on coconut milk with fresh berries & maple syrup will become a real superfood & healthy find (690 rubles).
For aesthetes and fans of the “French morning” (coffee or tea in an immortal duet with fresh pastries), undoubtedly there is a lot of interesting things to enjoy here.
By the very opening of the restaurant, pastry workshop of Ladurée delivers baked in early morning crispy croissants: classic or elegant and lush, glazed with walnuts (210 rubles).
A recent novelty that managed to conquer hearts of hundreds of sweet lovers is a Bostok bun with sea buckthorn and raspberries (230 rubles).
Visiting this place is impossible to leave it without trying airy Ladurée French toast with rose, raspberry jam and whipped cream (750 rubles): a “sweet cloud” that takes you to the seventh heaven.
Branded Macaroon (190 rubles / pc.) presented in more than ten flavors is a wonderful cure at any time of the day.
Ladurée Russia
about.restaurant/ladureerussia
Addresses: st. Nikolskaya, 5/1, p. 3;
st. Malaya Bronnaya, 27/14
Editor-in-chief: Patricia Kolari
Technical Director: Evgeny Fedorov
Text writer: Marina Timoshevskaya Photos: EATWEEK
