Rasmus Kofoed & Søren Ledet, “the fathers” of 3 Michelin star GERANIUM restaurant, have taken a bold step in their durable gastronomic journey, radically changing the entire restaurant menu into a completely new performance, full of fresh ideas, flavors and senses.
The new GERANIUM menu is launched in March 2022.
Head Chef Rasmus Kofoed, always fraught with inspiration, never backs down in the face of difficulties, and after GERANIUM ranked second in the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants last year, decided to completely change the menu and create something new that reflects his passion and the spirit that drives him.
Only fish and seafood, combined with vegetables and fruits, remained on the new menu: Rasmus removed all meat because of his own convictions — for many years he himself has not eaten meat and been following a healthy lifestyle.
“I felt it was time for a change, and for me and for the people who work here, we have to move forward and constantly evolve, — says Rasmus. — As I love my job, the things that surround me, so I love the challenge in my life. We spent a lot of time creating the new menu, not everything was so easy, but I felt a lot of energy and freedom”.
Updates have also appeared in the interior of the restaurant: Danish artist Rikke Darling painted the tunes of Danish wildlife, plants and insects on the walls, while the music from the Efterklang band creates its own special relaxed atmosphere.
The updated menu combines light, nature, positivity — a so-called multi-sensory experience that reflects soul & mood of the chef that he felt when he started all over again. Many dishes are inspired by some Rasmus memories, such as a visit to the Palace of Versailles or the most memorable pictures of his childhood, walks in nature or along the ocean.
In the Photo: General Manager and Wine Director Søren Ledet
The GERANIUM General Manager and Wine Director Søren Ledet, who is also a co-owner of GERANIUM, has followed Rasmus throughout the “Global change” and developed totally new wine accompaniments.
“Beginning my gastronomic career in the kitchen, I have always worked with passionate sommeliers who have helped me understand wine and understand why and how wine and food go well together. I knew this was my calling, — says Søren. But to become a good sommelier, you need to study all the time and explore the whole world. And you should never be a selfish sommelier, you should always understand that the guest’s point of view is your reality.
Both Rasmus and I feel that Geranium is constantly moving in the right direction. The wine program has evolved over the years, as the guests have shifted from primary Danish to a more international clientele, to having a very diverse and deep list. We do a lot of tastings with importers in Denmark and we are trying to find wines that are unique and wines you don’t see on other pairings around town”.
Søren recommends to start dinner with a glass of champagne, which goes perfect with Starters. Champagne trolley is represented by four positions, leaving the choice to be made by the guest.
Act I: Appetizers
The set opens with an appetizer inspired by Danish traditions — when the Danes eat herring, they wash it down with dill aquavit.
– Salted herring in crispy algae with dill stems & aquavit
The following appetizers:
– Oscietra caviar “Gold”, lightly smoked sunflower seeds, pickled walnut leaves & whipped cream
– Infusion with grilled squid, yeast & potato skin
– Lightly pickled yellow beet “Roi Soleil”, sea buckthorn & goat cheese
“This dish was inspired by my trip to Versailles, a splendor brought to perfection by King Louis XIV, who was called “Roi Soleil” – The Sun King”, — says Rasmus.
– Forrest mushrooms, dark beer, smoked egg yolk & pickled hops
Søren considers white wine to be more suitable for a mushroom appetizer: Riesling Gaisböhl, Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Pfalz, Germany, 2014
The first part of the set is completed with a porcini mushroom bun, served with melted mushroom-flavored butter.
– Cep “Bun”
Act II: Savory Servings
The dish that opens the second Act of the menu is related to the marine theme. The cucumber liquid is added to the oysters for a great salty and fresh taste that really makes you feel like the ocean in your mouth.
– “Ocean” cold cucumber juice, smoked snail eggs & parsley
– Celeriac with hazelnut oil & green apples, fermented cream with caviar
The wine pair for these two dishes emphasizes the taste of seafood at its best: Terrassen 958, Martin & Anna Andorfer, Kamptal, Austria, 2019
“Wine will always be second to the food and rightfully so, the beverage program is designed with diversity in mind and the idea that we can please most of our guests, — continues Søren. — The world of wine is huge. It is hard as you suggest, but when studying as much as we do at Geranium, we know the important wines and the smaller producers that we want on the list. It’s a never-ending process and a team effort for sure”.
– Bread pancake with buttermilk, wild onions, winter truffle & smoked aged cheese
– Boiled beetroots “Birkemosegård”, dried blueberries & horseradish
Wine pair: La Charpenterie, Domaine du Collier, Saumur, Loire, France, 2015
The following course is served in three parts, allowing the guest to tie it up:
– Scallops, dried blackcurrants, citrus flavored herbs & scallop roe emulsion
– Turbot & langoustine wih pine, tarragon & aromatic herbs
Wine pair: UVSL Vineyards Chardonnay, Aubert, Sonoma Coast, USA, 2019
– Cabbage & quince “Bianchetto”
– “A childhood memory”, ryebread, cheese & vegetables
The following dish was created according to childhood memories of Rasmus, when his family baked rye bread themselves. “We did not live very richly, so it was not possible to buy everything in stores, we cooked a lot ourselves including baking rye bread, which, being fried with cheese, remained in my memory as one of the best delicacies of my childhood. This is how the idea of creating this dish was born”, — says Rasmus.
Here the best touch would be vintage wine: Gran Reserva 890, La Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain, 2005
Act III: Sweets
The sweet part of the set begins with a dessert in the form of a refreshing juice:
– Cold pressed juice from celery, gooseberries, mint & pear
The following dessert seems to be a continuation of the flower arrangement on the walls of the restaurant.
– Cloudberry, pumpkin & white chocolate
Next elegant serving reflects Rasmus’ great love on chocolate — two types of chocolate on a thin gilded spoon:
– Dark chocolate & Jerusalem artichoke reduction
For this pair of desserts Søren chooses: La Magendia, Clos Lapeyre, Jurancon, France, 2017
– Ingrid Marie apples with aronia berries, apple butter & crispy cinnamon flowers
“The apple dessert is inspired by my everyday traditions, — Rasmus continues. — When I cook at home, I like to add apple along with cinnamon”.
Søren considers the best accompaniment to this sweet course a dessert wine from local producers, which also goes well with the rest of the final desserts: Malus Danica, Cold Hand Winery, Denmark, 2018
Søren Ledet: “Sommelier is “the Jack of all trades master of none” — we know a lot about the whole world of wine, but on any given night you will meet a guest that knows maybe more about a wine or a region than you. Be honest and humble, don’t try to force the guest to buy an expensive wine, help them find the wine that may change their life or a least make their night memorable”.
Set is finishing with 3 small desserts:
– Frozen raspberry juice & mild liquorice
– Milk chocolate with pickled rose hip
– Warm potato cake with nutmeg & yoghurt
Each dish of the new menu is a masterpiece that you want to capture in your memory for a long time. Tasting the menu, you are always in dialogue with the creators and feel the process of each creation’s birth, traveling through the pages of memories and feeling all those moments of excitement and joy that are invested in this new inspiring and creative chapter of GERANIUM.
The Spring Universe (minimum 3 hours) — 2,900 DKK
Wine pairing “Heart & Soil” — 2,000 DKK
GERANIUM
Adress: Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8.
DK-2100 Copenhagen
Opening hours: Wednesday 18.00 – 23.30; Thursday-Saturday 12.00 -15.30 and 18.30 – 23.30
Contacts: +45 6996 0020; info@geranium.dk
Instagram: @restaurant_geranium
Editor-in-chief: Patricia Kolari
Text Writer: Marina Timoshevskaya
Technical Director: Evgeny Fedorov
Photos: EATWEEK GUIDE
