Olluco, a restaurant nestled in the heart of Moscow, is a culinary gem that operates as a practically secret location. This culinary sanctuary was opened by one of the world’s finest chefs, Virgilio Martinez. After six years of collaborating in South America, Martinez decided to bring his expertise to Russia in 2021, inviting Nicanor Vieyra to lead his establishment.
In 2025, the restaurant secured second place in the competition for the title of “Best Restaurant” in Russia, as recognized by WhereToEat Russia, and Nicanor Vieyra was honored as “Chef of the Year”.
During the intense heat in Moscow, Olluco emerged as one of the best restaurants to escape to. Its walls, made of natural stone, maintained a cool atmosphere, and the architecture prevented the room from overheating. This venue is perfect for introverts, thinkers, those seeking privacy, or individuals who prefer communication in a friendly setting. It remains quiet, with a pleasant twilight, and conversation topics naturally arise, often sparked by chef Nicanor Vieyra’s provocative dishes.
We have become accustomed to “gastronomic theater”, but now there’s a deeper investment in set creation, known as “gastronomic contemplation”. This involves witnessing and empathizing with a new taste experience. It’s not just about food; it’s about new emotional experiences and reflections on eternal themes like the nature of things, the variability of existence, and its fragility.
Seizing the opportunity when the chef was not occupied with preparing his distinctive dishes, we were able to ask him a few questions (Nicanor speaks excellent English).
– Nicanor, 2025 has been a successful year for you in terms of awards. We also noticed that there are already numerous WhereToEat diplomas displayed on the shelves in the bar area, indicating that you appreciate such recognition of your work as a chef.
– Receiving awards is always gratifying as they affirm that we’re on the right track. Cooking is inherently subjective, with some people appreciating our work more than others. However, recognition from our restaurant patrons and industry peers is particularly meaningful and serves as motivation to continue our journey and expand further. Additionally, these awards help introduce our work to individuals outside the industry.
– Do you keep track of your colleagues’ achievements and maintain warm relationships with them?
– Of course, I follow the chefs; for the most part, we know each other well, and many of them are my good friends. I don’t view the WhereToEat award as a competition among us; rather, it’s a recognition of each of our efforts. A warm feeling of support and appreciation for one another prevails here. For me, it’s always a celebration when a colleague succeeds. I have excellent relationships with everyone, even those with whom I can’t speak English. We find ways to understand each other, communicate, and share information on social networks. However, the easiest way is to meet and cook together, sitting at the same table.
– How challenging is it to operate a Peruvian restaurant in Moscow, considering the difficulties in transporting certain products and logistics issues?
– We always strive to use only products that are perfectly fresh. That’s why, whenever we discuss something significant, like a new set or dish, we first consider the nature of the project and then tailor our menu accordingly. We rely on ingredients that arrive quickly, such as scallops from Sakhalin, crabs from Kamchatka, and fish from Murmansk. The menu features pike perch and a variety of seafood, including scallops, oysters, and mollusks.
The set I initially named “Equilibrium” I would prefer to call “Connections,” but perhaps this word doesn’t carry the same meaning in Russia as it does in other languages. This menu is a reflection of all my travels and contains a lot of personal insights from South America and Russia. We offer several dishes that can be described as “completely Russian” with a Peruvian cooking approach, using local ingredients. In addition to the set menu, we also provide an a la carte menu to offer our guests various options.
We would like to begin the tasting of the set with words from the film “Equilibrium” — “In our bright world there are still objects that can awaken emotions that can return us to our former self-destructive life. These objects are united by the concept of ‘art.’”
The menu includes nine dishes that represent the different ecosystems of Peru. Some view this as a continuation of the “Flying Seeds” theme, but according to Nicanor, the concept is explored much deeper, especially when paired with a non-alcoholic cocktail selection, which we have focused on.
The set menu starts with cold appetizers:
“Arid Coast” — dorado, green tomatoes, wakame, tuna, seaweed, aloe vera, kombu, pomelo. Initially served as distinct components, united into a single harmonious flavor, with the dorado concealed beneath the wings of light chips.
“Black Rocks” — botan ebi, sea urchin, kaffir, caviar, spirulina, scallop. Kaffir lime adds the perfect sourness to the dish, and the combination of scallop and spirulina results in an exceptionally tender texture.
– Nicanor, how would you describe a typical Olluco client, considering it is more than just a restaurant — it embodies a complete philosophy?
– Our regular customers are primarily frequent travelers who are already well-informed and know what to expect. We don’t engage in PR or advertising; often, their friends or colleagues recommend the restaurant. Many guests are familiar with the restaurant’s history or our projects in Peru. Additionally, those who wish to experience an “out of town” vibe visit us, as they travel frequently and even in Moscow, they seek a vacation-like atmosphere. We strive to evoke the essence of Peru through music, aromas, and textures. For our regular guests, we aim to introduce changes, offer new dishes, or accommodate special orders, ensuring there’s always something to surprise them.
– You frequently lead ‘chef’s tours’ beyond Moscow. Do people request your permission to use specific dishes?
– Many restaurant representatives from other cities visit us, try our dishes, get inspired, and then inquire if we can create similar sets for their establishments. Occasionally, I offer advice on certain dishes and provide recipes. I’ve done this in Siberia and other locations. For instance, we recently visited Nalchik and demonstrated our bread so they could incorporate it into their menu.
Bread is given special attention and is served as a distinct course in the set:
“Sacred Valley” — ostrich escabeche, Andean grains, chulpi corn, duck, huancayna, mate, Bashkir honey — a favorite among most guests, the same “Peruvian bread” paired with honey.
– Your set includes a variety of alcoholic (wine) pairings, as well as non-alcoholic options
– Regarding wines, I believe we should propose two options: one with a more “European” focus, featuring French wines and specialties, and another that combines wines from Argentina and Chile with Russian wines, as they are also excellent. We personally select both.
For the non-alcoholic pairing, all the beverages were developed in our laboratory, considering the unique aspects of Peruvian cuisine. We collaborated with Peruvian ingredients, such as authentic Peruvian cocoa. I believe we have created an ideal pairing that enhances your ability to focus on your own taste experiences.
– Do Peruvians come to you and what is their reaction?
– Yes, they come often (especially from the embassy) and they like it here. Sometimes I change some dishes for them, because in Peru they can be more sour or more spicy. In Peru, for example, they eat a lot of fried and sour foods, put a lot of raw onions and chili peppers. Of course, in Moscow this is not always in demand, so the dishes in the sets are quite “mild”.
Mains were served in four courses:
“Seven-Flower Mountain” — oxtail, purple corn, ahi panka. Corn is particularly tender and pairs excellently with stewed ox meat.
“Northern Waters” — black cod, Jerusalem artichoke, salsify, cod liver, fermented orange. The light caramel sweetness of the sauce enhances the flavor of the cod, while the orange balances the fish’s initial fat content.
“Far East” — Kamchatka crab, apple, fennel, turnip. An exceptionally unique way to serve crab, perfectly complemented by a sour apple.
“On the edge of the jungle” — ribeye, birch, tamarind, pumpkin. The unique characteristics of fermentation transform taste sensations and even the pumpkin pulp, a discovery that requires some contemplation. This is the enchantment of this set, revealing entirely new aspects of familiar products.
– Nicanor, do you offer vegetarian options here? How widespread is this practice in Russia, to your point?
– Russia is quite accommodating for vegetarians, and cooking here can be simpler in some respects. In Argentina, gluten and lactose allergies are prevalent, but here they are less common. Perhaps Russians are more resilient (smiles), and I appreciate that you don’t have to be overly concerned about gluten or lactose in the dishes. For vegetarians, we offer a wide variety of options. Initially, these were available in the a la carte section, but now we have created a special menu that also considers seasonal ingredients, as with all our menus.
To conclude the menu, two exquisite desserts:
“Highlands” — sage, huacatay, pine, cloudberry. This dish evokes the flavors of the northern cuisine, featuring cloudberry in the form of ‘juice bubbles’.
“Amazon” — coconut, miso, cashew, chuncho, macambo, cupuac. A dessert that combines various sweet flavors simultaneously, featuring cocoa beans from Peru, reminiscent of delicate tiramisu, candy, and biscuits.
Nicanor Vieyra: “I truly appreciate it when guests share their experiences with others, try the menu, and express a desire to visit Peru. It’s also delightful when they come just to inquire if I’m planning something new. I find great joy in serving the set and witnessing the guests’ happiness with our offerings. I notice that people value our work and express gratitude as I travel through the regions. We encounter warmth, love, and positive feelings. The most important and valuable aspect is the time spent together and the communication with Russian people. This is another reason I enjoy Olluco.”
Degustation menu — 18,500 rub.
Classic wine pairing — 16,000 rub.
‘Unknown Land’ wine pairing — 30,000 rub.
Non-alcoholic pairing — 6,000 rub.
Olluco
Address: Daev Lane, 19, Moscow, Russia
Opening hours: Tue – Sun: 17.00 – 00.00
Instagram: @olluco.ru
Text: Elena Zlotnikova
Photo Courtesy: EATWEEKGUIDE
