Henry Karpin maintains a low profile from the restaurant hype, doesn’t try to make his social media platforms a showcase of his accomplishments, and simply enjoys life to the fullest. His business principles revolve around honesty, transparency, respect, and reputation. These principles become evident when you consider that Henry is a financier by profession, and his world is governed by numbers, deals, time constraints, and strict agreements.
Not long ago, the LEO restaurant opened, where we met Henry, a descendant of Russian immigrants who grew up in Germany. His parents, creative intellectuals, left Moscow in the 1970s. However, Henry returned to his historic homeland only in 2003 and was immediately struck by the stark contrast between the stories his parents had shared and the vibrant opportunities that this capital city offered.
– Henry, how did it happen that you completely changed the direction of your activity? Apparently, the love for gastronomy was stronger?
– Honestly, I love to eat very much. That’s why I have to exercise all the time. Back in Berlin, my mother used to set huge tables where the whole family would gather. On Sundays, family and friends would come for the traditional brunch; it was such a big family meal. And later, I always had a good meal. In my student days, wherever I came to, in any country or city, I would find out where to try the national cuisine or interesting dishes. Back then, you had to find out from locals or friends – where there were great chefs, where it was better to go. Now everything is much easier: there is Instagram, map search, photos, and descriptions of dishes on the internet, reviews. I loved tasting everything new, but believe me, I never thought I would become a restaurateur; it was more of a hobby.
– How do you maintain a work-life balance while sports play a significant role in your life?
– I’ve seamlessly integrated sports into my life. For me, it’s not just a chore but also a chance to socialize with friends. We train for marathons together, plan our next meetup, and I used to play semi-professionally in tennis. But then I discovered something even more captivating – triathlon. I had an Ironman race in Barcelona in May, but I decided to take a vacation with my daughter at the sea. I’m even willing to miss the race for her sake. However, we made plans with friends in Europe to run Ironman together in September, which fuels my motivation to train harder and prove to them that I’m in top shape.
My daily routine starts with an alarm set at 7:03 am. Even though I sometimes don’t feel like getting up early, I drag myself out and hit the gym for two hours. My trainer creates a detailed workout plan for me, and we discuss it thoroughly. But there’s always one day off a week — Mondays. And here we are, enjoying a well-deserved rest. As a restaurateur, I’m constantly surrounded by delicious food. For instance, we recently prepared breakfast options at LEO, and the chef introduced us to new variants every week. We tried everything, but we couldn’t resist indulging in less fatty dishes. So, sports play a crucial role in my life as well.
– How effortlessly did you adapt to Moscow? Many expats find it challenging to settle in immediately.
– Moscow, in my opinion, is the ideal city for everything: sports, business, and life. Its well-developed infrastructure is unparalleled, offering sports grounds, accessible transportation, and a delightful cycling experience around the capital. We often enjoy weekend walks with friends. The only thing I miss in Moscow is the sea. If it were here, I wouldn’t need to travel anywhere. (Editor’s note: We wholeheartedly agree!) As a restaurateur, Moscow is the ultimate platform for growth and showcasing the best of culinary projects. While traveling the world and seeking unique flavors and combinations is essential, Moscow’s cuisine surpasses anything else. Even in challenging supply conditions, the capital’s culinary scene remains exceptional.
I frequently visit Dubai, where I engage in conversations with renowned restaurateurs. They acknowledge our influence on their presentation, product approach, and trends. Additionally, we boast exceptionally well-trained staff. In Arab countries, they actively seek Russian waiters and chefs who have honed their skills in Moscow, which is seen as a hallmark of “quality.”
– We’re aware that you’re running an exciting project in Dubai.
– Yes, it’s a waterside restaurant African Queen, with its own beach and swimming pool. The restaurant’s focus is on sports and wellness. Every morning, they offer unique breakfasts. First, there’s a one-and-a-half-hour yoga class, followed by a healthy breakfast. When we first launched this “combo,” we didn’t expect it to be very popular, but now all the spots are booked. The healthy lifestyle trend has been gaining popularity in recent years, and our breakfast offerings at LEO are special because they include gluten-free and lactose-free options.
– You travel frequently, so you naturally seek out unique experiences in other restaurants. What recently surprised you?
– I recently visited a restaurant in Berlin called Verōnika. They served a bread basket with a croissant on top, sprinkled with coarse salt. You could eat it with fresh butter. That morning’s taste combination of salty and dairy left a lasting impression on me, and I’m considering incorporating something similar into my own menu.
– How has the culinary scene in Moscow evolved since your arrival in the 2000s?
– Back in August 2003, when I first visited Moscow, I was struck by the sheer variety of food options available. Every restaurant seemed to have three menus: Japanese, sushi, and Italian. Molecular cuisine quickly gained popularity, but it soon lost its appeal. In recent years, seafood and raw fish have become the go-to choices, with dishes like crudo, ceviche, and tartares being particularly popular. The dining experience has become more relaxed and refined. The emphasis on overpowering sauces has diminished, and people are now more mindful of the ingredients they consume. In 2025, there’s a growing global trend towards paying premium prices for high-quality, flavorful food. People are seeking the best possible taste and nutritional value.
The dining audience has also changed. Restaurants now attract a more sophisticated and discerning audience that values quality and taste. It’s become increasingly challenging for restaurants to discard unsold food, as customers are now aware of the freshness and quality of the products. They have a clear understanding of what types of fish are best suited for different dishes. This heightened awareness has led to increased demands for high-quality ingredients.
This shift aligns perfectly with our vision and ideology. Our guests visit us multiple times a week for lunch and dinner, and they trust our taste preferences. It’s also worth noting the significant growth in our understanding of wine quality. That’s why LEO is clearly a wine restaurant. We carefully curate our wine list, spending six months to select a diverse range of vintages, including many limited-edition bottles. Wine has become an integral part of the dining experience, and the concept of a restaurant without enogastropairing is simply unthinkable.
– In today’s challenging business landscape, how do you successfully identify and establish relationships with suppliers?
– Our primary supplier is Moscow’s Food City, and our chefs collaborate with local farms. Our fish deliveries are meticulously organized, with almost all fish arriving by airplane, ensuring freshness. Our brand chef, Sergey Balashov, introduced the concept of using meat from Uruguay. We conducted extensive research in South America, testing various producers, and ultimately selected a single farm that consistently delivers optimal quality for steaks.
As a meat enthusiast, I recognized the scarcity of exceptional meat restaurants in Moscow. Given the Russian people’s love for meat, which is deeply ingrained in our culture and climate, I decided to build the concept of 800°C Contemporary Steak (ranked 46th globally in the prestigious World’s 101 Best Steak Restaurants) on this foundation. Surprisingly, it proved to be a resounding success. We firmly believe that we stand as the leading meat provider in the country.
Sergei Balashov personally inspects each cut of meat, ensuring his absolute satisfaction before acceptance. With extensive experience in cutting and cooking meat, he recently had a two-day session with the personal butcher of the imperial family in Japan.
We have also decided to establish personal production within our restaurants, including our own beef sausages. Our customers have embraced these sausages, often requesting them as a “to-go” option after dinner. This aligns with the upcoming holidays or family gatherings, where they want to enhance their dining experience. We exclusively use high-quality beef, including wagyu, chichino, and bresaola, for our sausages. We plan to expand our offerings to include a butchery and delicatessen meats section. Our guests have thoroughly enjoyed our sausages, appreciating the ability to savor their favorite dishes with unique flavor accents. Notably, we refrain from using the 800°C Contemporary Steak ovens in our restaurants. Instead, we opt for open fire cooking, which has garnered positive feedback from visitors. They have observed that the same cut of meat, prepared on the open fire, yields a distinct taste, providing a delightful gastronomic experience.
Lastly, we have included “street food” items on our menu, such as shaverma and burgers. These dishes are universally appealing, regardless of social status, and can be elevated to a haute cuisine level.
– What can we expect from you as a restaurateur?
– We have extensive plans. Two restaurants are under construction in Moscow, but I won’t reveal the details yet. I can say that it will be a “premium meat theme,” a completely new concept for Moscow. It will introduce fresh knowledge and a unique approach to meat cuisine.
We don’t plan to open in St. Petersburg at this time, despite frequent visits and intriguing locations and cooperation opportunities. However, the St. Petersburg market is complex, and we lack a comprehensive understanding of it. Additionally, the time for promotion is now more limited than ever. Therefore, I want to create something I am certain of. A few years ago, I was delighted with St. Petersburg cuisine, but Moscow is currently leading the culinary scene. Unfortunately, St. Petersburg concepts don’t seem to work well here. On a positive note, we have successfully opened Bottega Italiana on the main square of the Tula Kremlin. It’s a premium restaurant for the city, but we’ve made an effort to offer a diverse range of dishes to cater to different budgets. You can enjoy pizza or salad, and if you’re feeling adventurous, try turbot or oysters. In the summer, the restaurant boasts a stunning view terrace. Thanks to high-speed trains, you can easily travel from Moscow to have lunch there.
– Henry Karpin’s primary strength and weakness?
– My strength lies in my insatiable thirst for action and my relentless drive to never stop, never remain stagnant, and continuously acquire new knowledge, skills, and competencies. On the other hand, my weakness is my family. I often find myself missing them. For the sake of my family and my daughter, I am willing to make any sacrifice. My Leonie is my greatest achievement in life. My little princess with a big personality.
And how accurate are the lines:
“What exactly does it mean to be great? It entails having the humility to serve one’s neighbors, even if they are superior to you…”
(Heinrich Mann, “The Mature Years of King Henry IV”)
Text: Elena Zlotnikova
Photo Courtesy: EATWEEKGUIDE
