A barbecue grill billowing thick clouds of fragrant meat smoke amidst the lapping of fluorescent orange flames. Kimchi slaw cutting through an unctuous slice of braised meat, that put up zero fight against a fork. Bowls of irresistible potato puree cascading off spoons, akin to the extraordinarily stretchy aligot being passed around to the ensuing soft sighs of its victims.
This delicious reunion at Future Lab ANIMA, a culmination of months and months of planning by Alexander Hermann and team, to house some massive talents under one roof for just one night — 23 March 2025.
I had the privilege of attending said dinner, featuring not two, but three of Europe’s most lauded chefs serving up their visions on plates, in the bucolic town of Wirsberg in Bavaria. Marco Müller of Rutz in Berlin, Andreas Caminada of Schloss Schauenstein and home ground player Alexander Hermann of AURA.
Even days before the chefs arrived, the energy in the whimsical Posthotel was palpable — everyone from housekeeping to the kitchen interns buzzing with anticipation. Suitably so, as this culinary constellation of 8 stars in 1 kitchen phenomenon marks AURA’s very first 6-Hands dinner, giving its loyal following a rare change to experience a convergence of unique culinary styles.
The enthusiastic guests burst into applause, abetted by Alexander’s uproarious introductions and the feast commences. There’s a band of snacks that quickly blow in.
First, Chef Andreas presents a gentle arch of carrot and horseradish, alongside a beef tartare loaded shiso ‘taco’. The deep, resonating heat of chili in the crispy taco titillating the tastebuds immediately. Next, Chef Marco spotlights mussels from the German sub-tidal flats, boosted with pickled green strawberries, and a fragrant dashi anointed with kombu oil. There’s a delicious bitter chicory dish that some found challenging but I relished in its welcome crunch. Last but not least, the Franconian speciality: The slate truffle (or Erbsenstreuling as the Germans call it) makes its deferred appearance — a delicacy from the surrounding spruce forests, the slate truffle is prized for its umami and here, it’s carried by supporting actors, salted cherry and tarragon.
Now that the stage is set, it’s time for the guest chefs to dole out the main acts. Starting with the pike perch marinated in oil overnight and flamed, it sits underneath thin folds of cured kohlrabi that play on the familiar sour flavours of sauerkraut. “We also serve it with nasturtium flowers and leaves,” says Chef Andreas, “the latter tastes a bit like wasabi or horseradish.”
Not knowing so much of what Rutz restaurant in Berlin is about, the next dish achieving an almost feeling of satori — spring water trout with Maillard tomato, sour cream and shavings of thin cauliflower. It’s an umami bomb with a crumble made of fish skin acting as crunch mercenary, and is a tough act to follow.
Schloss Schauenstein steps up to the pass with a plate of warm veal sweetbread garnished with a sauce of red beets. For crunch, there’s toasted hazelnuts. For depth, there’s black garlic. Like the pike perch, there is something very refined about Andreas Caminada’s cooking — it’s an aesthetic treat, and the best part, the flavour is in that detail.
Among the 6 courses, many a raucous celebration of the renaissance of fermentation techniques; there is the Dry aged Oldenburg wagyu with garam sneaked into both sauce and foam served with kohlrabi briefly marinated in whey. The result is an ambitious plate that renders all of us at the table silent. It elbows its way to the top of the pecking order easily.
Beseechingly, AURA returns for the last word — a pithivier of Fichtelgebirge deer, black pudding and mushroom served with cascades of a creamy haskap sauce. It’s a tad weighty on the palate. That’s fine.
Let’s move on to the dessert shall we? A juniper, spruce and chocolate soiree that has been defined by just a tad too much acidity. I settled for the petit four of roasted hay and wild strawberry tartlet as my closing sweet note and quickly coveted my neighbours’: I’ll be dreaming of you tonight.
As the diners rub their bellies and contemplate that final notion of a non-caffeinated espresso martini, the chefs and corresponding teams emerged for a curtain call. There was a heartfelt applause when each restaurant was asked to stand, and even more authentic plaudits when Alexander Hermann extolled the virtues of his hardworking team at AURA and Posthotel. It’s a business driven by family virtues and a deep-seated instinct to feed; and I can’t wait to see what’s in store for them.
Instagram: @aura_anima_by_ahtb, @alexander_herrmann_offiziell, @marco_mueller_rutz, @rutz_restaurant_berlin, @andreas_caminada_schauenstein, @schloss_schauenstein
Text: Sihan Lee
Photo courtesy: Sihan Lee
