Nestled in the heart of the Romanov Dvor business center, TAJIRI GO has been a culinary haven for enthusiasts of Japanese yakiniku for just under a year. This restaurant embodies the rich traditions and philosophical underpinnings of Japan, with a singular focus on showcasing the exquisite allure of Japanese marbled wagyu beef.
TAJIRI GO, the third restaurant in White Rabbit Family’s Japanese Courtyard WA Garden project, officially opened its doors to guests on May 27, 2024.
WA Garden is a complex of three super-authentic Japanese restaurants, each meticulously designed to recreate the authentic atmosphere and cuisine of traditional Japanese restaurants.
The Japanese character “WA” (倭⼈) embodies the concept of “harmony”, which holds immense significance for the Japanese people. In a broader context, “wa” signifies “Japanese” or “local”, representing the inherent essence of Japan and its traditions.
The interior of TAJIRI GO, a collaborative project between Japanese architect Shimizu Kenichi and designer Maria Zhukova, embodies the traditional Japanese aesthetic. It features sliding paper fusuma doors, woven tatami mats, and tokonoma (a niche for decorative items). The most esteemed guests are seated near the tokonoma, adhering to the principles of etiquette.
Washitsu, meaning “paper room,” is the name given to these unique dining spaces. Each piece of furniture, art, staff clothing, traditional knives, handmade crockery, and fish cutting boards is meticulously imported from Japan, with many personally selected by the restaurant’s creator, Boris Zarkov.
Upon entering the restaurant, guests are kindly requested to remove their shoes and walk barefoot, just as they would in a traditional Japanese house. This symbolic gesture sets the tone for a truly authentic dining experience. They are then guided to a specially designed table in the center of the room, accommodating only eight guests. This intimate setting ensures that each guest receives personalized attention and an unparalleled gastronomic journey.
From where it all began
Tajiri Go, a bull that served as a breeding bull for twelve years and gave birth to the entire herd of tajima beef cows renowned worldwide as wagyu, is the inspiration behind the restaurant’s name. Born in 1939 on Matsuzo Tajiri’s farm to a cow named Fukue, Tajiri Go’s remarkable legacy continues through its 1500 calves. Remarkably, an astonishing 99.99 percent of registered mother cows are descended from Tajiri Go, as revealed by the National Wagyu Association’s research on the pedigrees of 718,969 registered mother cows.
Chef Ilya Amerkhanov, one of the youngest chefs in the WRF alliance, leads the kitchen at WA Garden. Before joining WA Garden, Ilya honed his meat preparation skills as a sous chef at Gorynych restaurant. Ilya and his team immersed themselves in the history and philosophy of Japanese cuisine, particularly the breeding, consumption, and care of cows. Before the restaurant’s opening, they traveled to Japan to further enhance their culinary knowledge. During dinner, guests are treated to a delightful culinary experience accompanied by informative explanations about the culinary traditions and techniques that make TAJIRI GO a culinary gem.
The Art of Wagyu Beef
The menu, which varies from 13 dishes depending on product availability, is served in the omakase style, meaning “I trust your choice” in Japanese. The star of the show is wagyu beef sourced from the Miyazaki Prefecture of Kyushu Island, renowned for its exceptional texture, marbling, and mild, slightly sweet flavor.
In addition to wagyu, the menu features a small selection of seasonal products handpicked by the chef. Seasonality holds great significance for Japanese people, as observing the natural changes throughout the year is one of their cherished pastimes. Consequently, Japan recognizes 72 distinct seasons, each associated with a beautiful event, such as cherry blossoms, peach blossoms, and the commencement of nightingale singing. These seasonal variations are also reflected in the menu, emphasizing the importance of savoring the product at its peak.
Our menu featured 11 courses, each presented with elegant and graceful flair. The culinary experience was akin to a gastronomic performance, where guests actively participated under the guidance of the chef.
As an alcoholic accompaniment, you can order a specially designed pairing for the set, or you can trust your choice. Sparkling wine, wine, and sake are all available, both by the glass and bottle. We chose AKASHI-TAI Junmai Ginjo sparkling sake, which was a perfect addition to the menu.
– Bluefin tuna sashimi
– Striploin sushi and sturgeon caviar
Upon request, guests can also opt for uni (sea urchin) at an additional cost. The combination of wagyu and uni is one of the most vibrant and extraordinary flavors you’ll ever experience.
– Chawanmushi and white asparagus — chawanmushi is an egg curd and has a delicate pudding-like texture.
– Grilled tongue and nori marmalade — Wagyu cow tongue, a special delicacy in Japan, is grilled, unlike ordinary cow tongue. This is also the way it’s offered at TAJIRI GO.
During dinner, guests engage in a culinary experience by frying various parts of the wagyu using specially designed metal tongs and a built-in red-hot grill integrated into the table.
In Japanese cuisine, grilled meat is known as “yakiniku”. The term originated to describe meat cooked in a barbecue style. It gained popularity during the Meiji era in 1872 when meat was lifted from prohibition and became an integral part of Japanese cuisine. Today, yakiniku encompasses Japanese dishes made with finely cut meat, cooked using grill grates.
– Young sunflower shoots are an ideal appetizer to refresh the taste buds between meat courses.
– Ribeye and enoki sukiyaki is another course where guests grill it according to the chef’s recommendations.
– Katsu-sando, probably the most delectable variation of a meat sandwich imaginable, a true culinary delight.
Served with tsukemono, an assortment of lightly pickled vegetables and seasonal fruits.
– Ribeye is the “cherry on top”. Guests can choose the level of frying, from rare to medium. It’s not recommended to over-fry wagyu, as the meat becomes excessively fatty and loses its quality.
– Miso soup, the traditional Japanese culinary tradition, concludes the main course of a meal.
– Persimmon with ice cream is a refreshing and light dessert that’s perfect for ending a hearty meal.
– Daifuku, a traditional Japanese sweet with a rich history, comes in various forms. One such variation here is Japanese grapes wrapped in a sweet rice shell, served with iced green tea alongside.
It’s notable to highlight the exceptional level of service we experienced throughout our entire dinner. The Japanese are renowned for their exceptionally hospitable service, known as omotenashi. This service is deeply rooted in Japanese national character and translates to “treating a guest with genuine care and compassion, putting your heart into your actions”. We were truly fortunate to witness this firsthand at TAJIRI GO.
The cost of the set varies between 19,000 and 21,000 rubbles depending on the day and time.
TAJIRI GO
Address: Moscow, Romanov pereulok, 2, p. 1, 1 floor BC Romanov Dvor
Opening hours: Wed – Fri: 17.30 – 23.00
Instagram: @tajirigo.moscow
Text: Marina Timo
Photo courtesy : EATWEEKGUIDE
