What could be more unexpected than a traditional European restaurant in the heart of Asia? German chefs, twin brothers Thomas and Matthias Sühring, born and raised in East Berlin, studied and worked all over Europe under famous chefs, who one day took a risk and moved to Bangkok to open their own Sühring project 8 years later, breaking stereotypes about traditional German cuisine, so often associated with beer and Bavarian sausages.
We met Thomas and Matthias Sühring back in 2018, during a guest dinner at Selfie restaurant in Moscow. At that time we had time to discuss their just-opened New German Cuisine project — Sühring was not even two years old yet, but it had already managed to get its first Michelin star and was ranked number 4 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.
The brothers told us that the cuisine of East Germany, where they come from, is dominated by the trends of Frankfurt, with a small admixture of France — and this is what formed the basis of their establishment, which they do not call a “haute cuisine” restaurant as a matter of principle. The main concept is the best dishes of modern German cuisine, inspired by childhood memories and family recipes, served in the most relaxed and unpretentious, elegant, but almost homely setting.
By the way, the setting is truly homey. A two-story mansion away from the business center, surrounded by a tropical garden serves Thomas and Matthias as both workplace and home. Just as their grandparents once invited the boys to their farm during the annual school summer vacation, today the Sühring brothers invite guests to their home, a stylish, cozy, warm and welcoming environment.
Which is especially curious, given that Sühring is one of the most titled establishments in the world (mentioned in La Liste’s Worlds Top200 Restaurants in 2022 and Worlds Top100 Restaurants in 2023, included in the Michelin Guide since 2018 with two coveted stars, #66 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022 and #7 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022).
Sühring has four main spaces: the “Dining Room”, which is the main dining area, the more dynamic “Kitchen”, a unique place where you can watch the twins and their team at work right from your table. The “Glass House” has a calm and natural atmosphere with a beautiful view of the garden, just perfect for a romantic dinner. On the top floor of the restaurant, there is a private “Living Room” that can accommodate up to 8 people.
So, we finally made our way to Bangkok to experience haute cuisine rooted in German tradition in a relaxing, soothing and elegant ambiance.
The first serving is Aki “Imperial ossetra caviar” (“Labskaus”, corned beef, potato) with black caviar of exceptional quality.
Wine suggestion: CUVEE 203, CHRISTMANN & KAUFFMANN, Pfalz, Germany
Followed by Obatzda (aged camembert, paprika, garlic), a cute allusion to the theme of symbols of German cuisine.
“Talking about world cuisines, we absolutely did not expect that Russian cuisine is so similar to German cuisine,” — the brothers shared with us during our first meet in Moscow, “When we tasted it, there was a sharp reminder of home. Pickles, preserved goods, smoked meats. This closeness of tradition is very pleasant to realize.”
We traced this similarity in the third serving, Brathering (herring, mustard and pickles).
Next was Hühnchensalat, miniature meadows with a delicate flavor and crunchy texture (chiskin, mushroom, butterhead lettuce).
Enleta & weinessiggut doktorenhof is our absolute favorite, a combination of bright taste and unexpected presentation that is impossible to forget!
Duck liver wafer with hazelnut in a package of the most famous German waffles served alongside the apricot vinegar in an extraordinary shot glass.
The delicate King crab for a contrast of textures (egg flan, king crab consommé caviar) and Aal grün (smoked eel, cucumber, dill, pike roe) for freshness.
Wine suggestion: 2020 FELSENBERG RIESLING GG, S. FRÖHLICH, Nahe, Germany
A special mention goes to the amazing bread basket with homemade pastries and whipped butter. We realized resistance was futile and ate the whole thing.
“We are opening up authentic German cuisine to the world,” — the brothers told us, “We thought a lot about what cuisine to choose as the basis of our author’s cuisine. In Germany, it’s difficult to find restaurants with traditional cuisine, even in homeland it is often perceived as “poor people’s food”. We decided to prove that this is not the case, and this became the foundation of Sühring concept.”
Wildpastete (deerboar, pheasant, parsley root, pistachio) opens the “mains” parade.
Wine suggestion: 2018 WILD HEIMAT, SILVANER, 2 NATURKINDER, Franken, Germany
Continues with Butter poached char (Topinambur, aromatic herbs, horseradish). We could not determine a favorite among these two courses.
Wine suggestion: 2021 CLOS DE SCHULZ, CHAT SAUVAGE, Rheingau, Germany
We could not do without seafood — Blue lobster grilled over hot embers (Maulteschen, rutabaga, tibetan black truffle).
Wine suggestion: 2020, SAUTERNES, CHATEAU D’YQUEM, Bordeaux, France
While waiting for the main poultry course, we enjoyed Spätzle (soft egg noodles with Cep mushroom, mountain cheese and white alba truffle).
Wine suggestion: 2020 NIEDER-FLÖRSHEIM, FRAUENBERG, Rheinhessen, Germany
The culmination of lunch was the symbol of Asian cuisine, herb-soaked Duck, aged for 10 days.
Wine suggestion: 2020 NUITS SAINT-GEORGES , T. LIGIER-BELAIR, Burgundy, France
And of course the desserts!
First serving — Persimmon with grue de cacao and vanilla, light, airy and very beautiful.
More dense Roasted plum (with chestnut, oat, quark, spiced rum).
And a terrific, crisp and rich Schwarzwälder kirschtorte (72% dark chocolate, vanilla and cherry).
Wine suggestion: 2020, ROSÉ BRUT D’ASSEMBLAGE, GRIESEL Hessische Bergstraße, Germany
Feine schokolade & omas eierlikör (selections of pralines & grandma’s eggnog) is a real work of art in the best traditions of the German confectionery school.
There are several exquisite pairing options to accompany the menu: non-alcoholic, and 2 wine pairings — first made up of solely German wines, another one of premium European wines or you can opt for a mix of both, which we have chosen.
Sühring Restaurant
Address: No.10, Yen Akat Soi 3, Chongnonsi, Yannawa, 10120 Bangkok
Opening days: Wednesday to Sunday
Opening time: Wed. to Sun.: 17:30 to 21:30 (LO)
Thu. to Sun.: 12:00 to 13:30 (LO)
Instagram: @restaurant_suhring
Text: Victoria Stashkevich
Photo courtesy: EATWEEKGUIDE
