One of the best chefs in the world, Gaggan Anand challenges himself and all aspects of haute cuisine by creating the ultimate immersion performance for his guests, only in the kitchen. The crew becomes the performers, chef Gaggan turns to the conductor and the food — the main guide to a multi-sensory journey with touch, sound, light, smell, taste and the sixth element – surprise — served as an unexpected artistic production.
In 2010, Gaggan Anand opened his eponymous restaurant GAGGAN in Bangkok, offering progressive Indian cuisine that incorporated molecular gastronomy techniques as well as Thai and Japanese influences and ingredients.
The restaurant quickly gained international recognition and prestigious awards, including two Michelin stars, cementing its position among the best restaurants around the world. Prior to its closure in 2019, Gaggan was recognized as Asia’s No. 1 restaurant by World’s 50 Best Restaurants for four consecutive years.
Chef Gaggan first planned to relocate to Japan, but this did not happen, and restaurant reopened while the culinary adventure began anew at 68 Sukhumvit 31, Sukhumvit Rd, Klongton-Neu, Wattana, Bangkok. We headed to this new location to experience Gaggan’s creative magic in full.
Stepping inside, the interior of the restaurant appears modern and concise, while it acts as a backdrop for the lighting aspect of the show. The main space is occupied by a gaunt joint table designed in the manner of a bar counter. No matter where you are seated, it will be comfortable to observe what is happening on the improvised stage. The fact, that dinner promises to be unusual is hinted only by the disco ball in the kitchen, which seems out of place in the first minutes you get inside.
The evening, like any performance, begins with an opening speech of the author. Gaggan introduces himself to the guests, sparkling jokes and sharing rules of the evening.
“We’re all different, from different cultures, countries and cities, but we’re here to re-imagine food,” — says Gaggan, “My goal is not only to make the guests feel my ideas and thoughts through the ingredients I put on their plate, but also to make them feel as much as possible the inconvenience of eating so that they can enjoy the true feelings of sensory experience, the sounds of the food. Along with the music, the emotions will awake senses and perhaps give them goosebumps.”
The 22-course set menu, with the flavors of each dish growing from one course to the next, is complemented by an exquisite pairing mostly consisting of natural wines from around the world, created by Gaggan’s wine director Vladimir Kojic,
ACT I
The first serving, Yogurt and chutney, is served directly on your palm, emphasizing not only the difference in textures but also the unusual presentation.
The second, Floral papadums salad, is also suggested to be eaten with hands.
Followed by Little Broccoli cookie dough, a bite crumbling on the tip of the tongue, entirely of broccoli flavor.
Chef Gaggan and his team dilute the food servings with ironic contests and light stand-up with a gastronomic twist.
Next, Mushroom paper also emphasizes the difference in textures, draws attention to the serving and puts your guard down for the next one.
Goat brain taste like rat — the most memorable position of the First Act, reflecting the chef’s idea of an additional sense, the gastronomic equivalent of improvised jokes without a script.
Green asparagus sunflower — invigorates and refreshes the receptors with a cool frozen core. Beetroot gorgonzola bite hidden “in the ground” — a combination of cheesy flavor and crumbly texture as a counterpoint to Clouds from Kolkata, dedicated to flavors from Chef Gaggan’s childhood.
Cloud is served on a plate that mimics a starry sky!
The first act concludes unusually with desserts — the vibrant and indulging Coffee foie waffle and Ghewar bonito ice cream, a variation on the ice cream sandwich, features crispy and creamy bits.
The last moment, Shiso, squid, sudachi, sesame, pulls the strings to the second part of the performance and keeps you entertained during the intermission.
ACT II
The second part of the dinner is even more interactive. Guests will have a lot of dancing and singing along to their favorite chefs and artists, the bravest could also try their skills in Chef Gaggan’s kitchen.
The first serving of the second part is a Jellied tomato blood latte (whose blood you’ve probably already guessed).
Appearing next, Bamboo turmeric satay is served dark with a fluorescent sauce that The Chef personally adds to each guest’s plate.
Methi matar malai momo — a combination of the thinnest rice dough, slightly sticky to the fingers, and juicy filling.
The name “Colors of eggplant” fully reflects the contents of the next serving, but it is almost impossible to unveil it without tasting — it looks so colorful.
Chicken charcoal wada is a variation on the theme of vegetarian fast food popular in India.
In order to prepare Coconut, Prawns, Cloves & Corn — the author’s version of Thai salad, the chef calls for two volunteers from the guests, who participate in a small culinary battle.
Next serving, Crab cauliflower mustard is brought in total darkness, the hall is illuminated only by the flames of fire.
Followed by Vinha d’alhos taco — also interspersed with musical interludes.
One of Gaggan’s personal favorite flavor combinations reflected in Seabream & aged basmati leaves with natural smoke flavor.
Getting to the final part of the performance, Desserts are no less spectacular — Japanese melon Yubari is taken out of containers with liquid nitrogen and covered with Vanilla cream.
And with “It’s raining man” playing loud, a signature mini-dessert that guests have to lick off the plate with their tongues, feeling the texture of the porcelain, turns the evening to a “Curtain Call” in the utmost fun way possible.
Address: 68 Sukhumvit 31, Sukhumvit Rd, Klongton-Neu, Wattana, Bangkok 10110
Opening Hours: Thursday to Sunday – 2 seatings at 17:30 and 21:00 (Closed Monday – Wednesday)
Instagram: @gaggan_anand
Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh
At the same address as “GAGGAN“, the 2nd floor is occupied with another Gaggan’s projects, called Ms. Maria and Mr. Singh. The restaurant is headed by chefs Hernan Crispin Villalva and Roshan Kumar.
The concept is based on a fictional romance between a Mexican girl Maria and an Indian guy Singh — we learned about this love story from the illustrated book that comes with the menu.
Everything here is imbued with the atmosphere of mutual and passionate love, they cook “fantasy” cuisine — a bright mix of Mexican and Indian, uniting two cultures and traditions.
The ambience and interior reflects the concept in incredibly colorful and vivid design, with a lot of unusual details catching the eye. The cocktail and wine list of Ms. Maria and Mr. Singh deserves special attention, reflecting the heroes’ journey through India and Mexico.
Address: 2nd Floor of Gaggan Anand Restaurant, 68 Sukhumvit 31, Sukhumvit Road, Klongton-Neu, Wattana, Bangkok 10110
Opening Hours: Tuesday to Friday: 18:00 – 23:00
Saturday to Sunday: 12:00 – 15:00 (Lunch), 18:00 – 23:00 (Dinner)
Instagram: @mariaandsingh
GAGGAN at Louis Vuitton
On February 28, 2024, world-renowned French luxury brand Louis Vuitton unveiled a new concept LV The Place Bangkok at Gaysorn Amarin, consisting of a Visionary Journeys exhibition celebrating the heritage of the fashion house, café, store and a restaurant by Gaggan Anand.
“GAGGAN at Louis Vuitton” is the House’s first restaurant in South Asia, blending Thai cuisine with Louis Vuitton’s signature style. The interior combines elements of botanical design and classic French style.
At ten Italian marble tables, visitors can sample a seasonal menu exclusively designed by Chef Gaggan and Head Chef Vix Rathour for Louis Vuitton and based on the 5 “S” — Sweet, Sour, Salty, Spicy and Surprise.
Address: Unit 2F-S01-A, Second Floor, Gaysorn Amarin, 496-502 Ploenchit Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330
Opening Hours: 12:00 – 23:00 (closed Tuesday and Wednesday.)
Text: Victoria Stashkevich
Photo courtesy: EATWEEKGUIDE
