EAT & DRINKFine DiningSEASONALVienna

TIAN & PAUL IVIĆ: The Vegetable Universe

Opened in December 2011 in the center of Vienna, the gourmet restaurant TIAN, headed by Chef Paul Ivić, sets new standards for vegetarian and vegan cuisine with high international recognition. Four toques by Gault&Millau, 1 Michelin star and 1 Michelin Green Star are unprecedented for a vegetarian restaurant in Austria, making TIAN now one of the best conceptual restaurants worldwide.

The TIAN restaurant was the first project of today’s TIAN group, founded by Christian Halper, who is also a fan of vegetarian cuisine. The name of the restaurant is also no coincidence. It is the Chinese word for “heaven”, as well as a French vegetarian stew.

Paul Ivić & his culinary philosophy

Krautwerk Farm
Krautwerk Farm

Paul Ivić’s passion for healthy vegetarian food goes back to childhood. The journey began in his hometown of Serfaus in the Austrian Alps, when at the age of 14, on the advice of his sister, he decided to devote himself to the art of cooking.

Paul Ivić
Paul Ivić

During his training as a chef, it was important for Paul to follow the rules and do everything in a certain way. So he learned the basics of cooking. Today, he enjoys the freedom to cook the way he wants to, creating new combinations and discovering new taste sensations.

TIAN
TIAN

From the very beginning, TIAN was conceived as a vegetarian restaurant, and when Paul joined as a chef, he enthusiastically began to develop this direction. It started with a fairly “normal” menu and needed a hard work to become the gourmet restaurant it is today. Everything Paul and his team do goes way beyond simple vegetarian cuisine.

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In the Photo: “Krautwerk” farm, one of the main TIAN vegetable suppliers; Paul Ivić & Robert Brodnjak, the owner of “Krautwerk”

“Food is more than just a meal, it enriches our lives, — says Paul Ivić. — Eating means taking responsibility for all resources and all the hardworking people behind them. Food means bringing people together. After all, food does not need a common language, only a kind soul is needed. Every meal is a reflection of the work of the people who make sure that the right ingredients are on the table, that the composition of the soil in which the seeds are planted is ideal, so that the products are delivered from the farm to the restaurant as quickly and freshly as possible. Our restaurant always appreciates the efforts of people, using the entire crop from root to leaf, without producing any waste.”

Bio Feigenhof
Bio Feigenhof

Paul Ivić has one doctrine — quality first. And there are no exceptions, since pesticides, antibiotics, hormones and GMOs have no place in a healthy diet. Truly well prepared, healthy and vegetarian food is an integral part of our diet. That’s why he and his team spare no effort to combine their own high standards of extraordinary cuisine with the pleasure and delight of experimentation.

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In the Photo: Bio Feigenhof — organic fig farm; one of the TIAN suppliers

To do this, Paul uses a variety of rare and almost forgotten vegetables, fruits and grains, their unique flavor and valuable nutrients. He focuses mainly on organic products, created in an honest way. All ingredients are supplied by regional partners who understand and comply with the high quality standards of the products.

Paul Ivić
Paul Ivić

“What I love about vegetarian cuisine is working with natural products that feel alive, and I appreciate the rhythm that nature gives us with seasonal vegetables, — continues Paul. — For me, the most important thing is that I do not want to imitate the taste of meat, I want to convey the taste of nature. We do not offer tofu or seitan instead of meat, like many vegetarian restaurants, this was never part of our concept. Nature offers us so many wonderful flavors that we don’t have to look for imitations when we can work with the most original flavors.”

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In the Photo: “City Farm” in Vienna’s Augarten, where Wolfgang Palme and his team grow vegetables and fruits sustainably in the middle of the city

Paul Ivić’s dishes can be called a foray into the Garden of Eden, more than just a sensory treat for taste and mind — on the contrary, they are a symbol of the true meaning of sustainability in high-end gastronomy.

Paul’s philosophy is a culinary principle that comes to life every day. He uncompromisingly processes fair trade organic ingredients and transforms them into incredible gourmet dishes.

TIAN Restaurant

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In September 2019, TIAN underwent a complete refurbishment from chairs to moldings, courtesy of renowned Viennese architect Michael Embacher.

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The interior of the restaurant has become even more elegant and sophisticated with the introduction of neutral colors combined with Josef Frank’s botanical prints and a new lighting concept that give the restaurant a new radiance. In line with TIAN’s sustainable development philosophy, as many components as possible have been reused and refurbished.

Paul Ivić & André Drechsel
Paul Ivić & André Drechsel

There is a rich wine cellar in the basement of the restaurant, with a selection of natural wines selected by André Drechsel and Nico Hammerl, who have been awarded Gault&Millau’s 2023 Sommelier Team of the Year.

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A hidden core of the restaurant is also a development kitchen, where all the processes of fermentation, maturation and other experimental and innovative things take place.

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In the Photo: winery Hans & Anita Nittnaus, Gols, Burgenland; one of the pioneers in natural wine from Austria

Everyone knows that wines go best with meat or fish. But in a restaurant where neither ingredient is available, it is not so easy to choose the right wines, so you have to be very careful and pay great attention to the pairing of wines and food, so that guests have an incomparable experience. In general, the sommelier offers natural wines, because their nuances complement the vegetarian dishes very well.

Paul presents a tasting menu of nine courses, each with a list of products that play a major role in each course.

TIAN Restaurant
TIAN Restaurant

First Course
Kohlrabi, Tigernut, Herbs

Rose made of slow-grilled and chickweed-macerated kohlrabi with flamed root spinach on top of a cream of juice extracted from kohlrabi cuts, all placed in a tigernut tartelette.

Shot made from freshly squeezed kohlrabi juice with oven celery juice and verjuice.

Kohlrabi dome made from slightly sour pickled kohlrabi slices filled with kohlrabi julienne, which were marinated with violet vinegar.

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Second Course
Cucumber, Kefir, Marigold

Frozen cucumber kefir ring: cucumber water whipped with kefir and chickpea water to a mousse and frozen.

Cucumber brew, seasoned with verbena and marigold oil. Verbena emulsion, fresh marigold greens and kefir cream.

Drink Pairing
All the Love of the Universe 2022, Christian Tschida, Illmitz, Austria; n/a — Mahewu with elderflower

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Third Course
Champignon, Artichoke, Lovage

Strong vegetable consommé with smoked champignons, fermented artichoke leaves and juniper. Artichoke puree with lovage. A small champignon, glazed with artichoke kombucha and filled with lovage. Two artichoke rolls, filled with artichoke, champignon and lovage, glazed with artichoke kombucha.

TIAN Restaurant
TIAN Restaurant

Drink Pairing
Gemischter Satz TIAN 2020, Weingut Joiseph, Jois, Austria; n/a — Smreka with roasted paprika and fermented birch water

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Fourth Course
Seinerzeit – Back to the Roots

– Bowl with sourdough bread
– Spiced flatbread
– Bowl with homemade kefir butter
– Bowl with pickled crosne, japanese knotweed and parsnip seeds
– Sour cream potato mash with Stekovics Tropea onions
– Cup of “Stosuppe”, soup with homemade sour cream and sour milk, prepared with stale bread.

Drink Pairing
Grüner Veltliner Kalt und Klar 2019, Markus Lang, Kremstal, Austria; n/a — Kvass with strawberry and lad’s love

TIAN Restaurant
TIAN Restaurant

Fifth Course
Zucchini, Tomato, Shiso

Belt made from lightly‚ steamed zucchini, marinated with grill oil and in pumpkin seed oil, as well as dried tomatoes, pickled in pumpkin oil.

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Tomato risotto from Styrian rice with pumpkin seed oil and hard cheese from Vorarlberg. Zucchini flower, tomato skin powder and roasted pumpkin seed powder.

Drink Pairing
Into my arms 2019, Armin Kienesberger, Oberschaffenberg, Austria; Chablis Pico 2020, Thomas Pico, Chablis, France; n/a — Pozol with Raspberry

TIAN Restaurant
TIAN Restaurant

Sixth Course
Porcini, Sunflower, Blackberry

Ravioli from two different doughs. Filling made with porcini, roasted sunflower seeds, shallots, sunflower seed cream.

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Sauteed porcini, emulsified in butter, sunflower seed cream, rehydrated blackberries and fresh blackberry bits, porcini crisps, porcini powder.

Drink Pairing
Blaufränkisch Ratschen 2014, Wachter Wiesler, Südburgenland, Austria; n/a —
Sour amazake with currant and lingonberry

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Seventh Course
Fig, Whey, Spruce

Fig compote at the bottom, honed with spruce balsam, fine-grained goat cheese and homemade fig cheese. On top spruce needles are added as well as whey foam.

Drink Pairing
Hirschin Riesling 2017, Weingut Hirsch, Kamptal, Austria; n/a — Kombucha with caramelized popcorn

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Eight Course
Cheesecake, Rose, Blueberry

Cheesecake, lightly smoked and coated with pumpkin seed nougat. Rose shrub gel, candied rose petals, blueberry foam with rose syrup, pickled blueberries, pickled mulberries and pumpkin seed miso crumble.

TIAN Restaurant
TIAN Restaurant

Ninth Course offers a choice of 2 alternatives.

Baked Stracciatella, Hazelnut, Sorrel, Cape Gooseberry

Soufflé baked with Stracciatella, cooled and covered with white chocolate, glazed with “Kriecherl” plums and sea buckthorn.
Yoghurt cream with white chocolate, fermented garlic and vanilla. Herb biscuit sugar-coated with white chocolate.
Sorrel sorbet with basil and arugula, glazed with nasturtium syrup.

TIAN Restaurant
TIAN Restaurant

Drink Pairing
Oh when the saints 2021, Weingut Heinrich, Gols, Austria; n/a — Shrub with pear, peas and peas green

Or
Beni, Raspberry, Amazake

TIAN Restaurant
TIAN Restaurant

Beni Wild Harvest 66% Bolivia chocolate mousse with a brownie bottom. Raspberry verbena gel, raspberry and amazake sorbet, frozen with shiso in nitrogen. Raspberry and amazake brew with hibiscus kombucha.

TIAN Restaurant
TIAN Restaurant

Drink Pairing
Diables 2021, Amos Baneres, Penedes, Spain; n/a — Rice milk with cacao nibs and fermented rose petals

TIAN Restaurant
TIAN Restaurant

Petit four
Assorted handmade chocolates, marmalade and biscuits

“I have high requirements for myself, our partners and their products, my team. To achieve this goal, we need to constantly improve our experience and expand our basic knowledge, discover new products, constantly challenge ourselves and open up new horizons, — explains Paul Ivić. — After all, two products may seem exactly the same, but their true origin can only be known by taste. We have one advantage over other restaurants — our partners have the same quality standards as we do. Constantly exchanging experience, we expand our own horizons. Our enthusiasm for high quality food is our engine. You can verify this by visiting our restaurant.”

TIAN Bistro

TIAN Bistro
TIAN Bistro

Four years after the establishment of the main restaurant, TIAN Bistro am Spittelberg opened its doors in September 2015, where the same Paul Ivić, who has always had a clear vision of the bistro: uncomplicated, but exquisite vegetarian and vegan cuisine, is the CEO and Brand chef.

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As for the ingredients, they are not much different from those used in the senior TIAN restaurant. Only fresh, organic and seasonal products grown by local producers get into the kitchen. The bistro menu is 80% vegan and 20% vegetarian.

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Paul Ivić and his team offer the “Sharing Chef’s Garden” tasting menu, in which dishes are selected so that they can be shared and tasted by the whole company.

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On weekends, you can taste an equally interesting breakfast-style menu.

TIAN Bistro
TIAN Bistro

Natural wine lovers will also find their perfect match at TIAN Bistro am Spittelberg. The wine list of TIAN sommelier André Drexel offers combinations both for the general menu and for all dishes on the menu, from more affordable to more exclusive.

TIAN Bistro
TIAN Bistro

Paul Ivić: “Food enriches our lives — we are convinced of this. Our vision is to ensure that organic, sustainable food is no longer a privilege of the elite, but a natural way for everyone. It requires respect and understanding of nature and its many distinctive flavors. Our number one goal is to dispel the old misconception that vegetarian food tastes boring. People are still a little afraid of an 8 or 10 course menu without fish and meat. So we’re on a mission here, and it’s always nice when guests who were hesitant at the beginning are smiling broadly by the end of the evening. That’s when we know we’ve done a great job. Also, at the restaurant, we are always moving forward and challenging ourselves to create new flavors. We want to support our farmers in their vision of biodynamic agriculture and set the tone for the zero waste movement.”

TIAN Restaurant

www.tian-restaurant.com

Address: Himmelpfortgasse 23 1010 Vienna

Contacts: Tel: +43 (0) 1 890 4665E-Mail: wien@taste-tian.com

Instagram: @tian_restaurant_wien

TIAN Bistro am Spittelberg

www.tian-bistro.com

Address: Schrankgasse 4 1070 Vienna

Contacts: Tel: +43 (0) 1 526 9491; E-Mail: spittelberg@taste-tian.com

Instagram: @tian_bistros


Text: Marina Timo
Photo courtesy: EATWEEKGUIDE