CopenhagenEAT & DRINKSmart & Casual

BARR: Kaleidoscope of Northern Flavors

If you’re craving for traditional tastes of Northern European cuisine, it’s definitely worth heading to BARR — a place where creativity and respect for the region’s classics are reflected in everything this ambient and welcoming space has to offer.

BARR is located on the old waterfront of Copenhagen, which offers a picturesque view of the harbor, in the building of a former whaling warehouse built back in the 16th century. Previously, the premises were occupied by Noma restaurant, where their office still remains.

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In the Photo: Founder & Brand Chef Thorsten Schmidt

BARR founder and brand Chef Thorsten Schmidt is a pioneer of New Scandinavian Cuisine who started his professional journey at Malling & Schmidt in Aarhus.

“When I signed a partnership agreement with René Redzepi, he told me that this is a landmark space and I must definitely succeed with it, — says Thorsten. — Therefore, when I opened the restaurant, I understood what a responsibility lies with me, that my task is to make this place not only iconic, but also special, by showing a flawless menu inspired by the traditional dishes of the countries surrounding the North Sea. And the magic power of Noma is always present within our walls”.

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The wooden beams and ceilings, walls, large arched windows have been originally preserved in the interior of the restaurant. Wooden tables, leather armchairs and sofas in the window openings, flower arrangements made of dried flowers, simple and concise crockery (which was designed by Thorsten’s wife) are in harmony with the authentic atmosphere of the restaurant.

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In the middle of the dining room is a long wooden table for a large company. In addition to the dining area, on the right side of the entrance there is a beer bar with 30 seats, where special attention is paid to beer and aquavit — traditional drinks of the Northern European region.

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Guests are also offered a wide selection of spirits, cocktails, wines and a À la Carte food menu.

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BARR is mostly a casual restaurant and bar, a place to drop in with friends or family for a beer and delicious dinner or a four-course set tasting menu that changes throughout the year. The restaurant offers dinner seven days a week and lunch on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

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Likewise Mediterranean cuisine is a collection of culinary traditions from countries scattered along the Mediterranean Ocean, BARR’s cuisine has brought together the traditional eating and drinking habits of the North and Baltic Seas, from Ireland and the United Kingdom to Germany, Poland, the Baltic States and of course, Scandinavia.

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It only takes a bit of digging to discover the vast similarities in food and drink traditions in this region. Even the word “Barr” itself ties this region together: “Barr” means “crop” in Old Irish, and “barley” in old Norse — a historically vital crop to this region and its traditions.

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“The food culture of this region has always fascinated me, — says Thorsten. — I grew up between Denmark and Germany and from childhood absorbed the spirit of northern European cuisine. Here at BARR we strive to showcase the traditions and characteristics of this cuisine, offering a variety of interpretations, from meatballs and schnitzel to marmite and sauerkraut — all food memories of my childhood”.

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Before starting dinner, you need to decide on the choice of drinks to accompany your meal. If the choice fell on beer, then the waiters will come to the rescue, always ready to help you find what you are looking for, answering questions, telling about the ingredients, methods, breweries and everything related to this “crystal-ringing” drink.

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On the menu you will find beer both on tap (over 20 varieties) and in bottles, sorted by taste characteristics: crispy, hoppy, malty, smoked, roast, with spices and fruits, as well as tart and sweet, so that the guests can experiment and find something new.

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Meat starter, such as BEEF TARTARE — Raw beef thigh with burnt beetroot, hip roses and pine — is one of the BARR guests’ favorites.

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For Tartar a BREAD basket is served — Sourdough bread with beer mash, Rye bread and salted butter

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Recommended Beer: GIRADIN, BLACK LABEL 2016 220St Ulriks Kapelle, Oude Geuze — unfiltered and unpasteurized beer from Belgium.

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One of the restaurant’s top Starters is also LUMPFISH ROE — served with Grilled Belgian waffles, green herbs and drained yoghurt.

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Looking for something brutal? Here’s BONE MARROW — Grilled bone marrow with compote of unripe black currants, herbs served with toasted rye bread.

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The perfect combination with this dish is the beer from Germany: SCHNEIDER, MEIN AVENTINUS TAP 6 70Wheat Doppelbock, 8,2% — the wholehearted, dark ruby coloured wheat beer, intensive and fiery, warming, well-balanced and tender. “Doppelbock” is Bavaria’s oldest wheat brewed since 1907.

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Of the main dishes you should definitely try the legendary Schnitzel — deservingly called the hallmark of the restaurant, for which people return here again and again.

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SCHNITZEL WIENER ART — Free-range pork, grilled brussels sprouts, horseradish and Barr’s butter sauce with anchovies.

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Recommended Beer: JOLLY PUMPKIN, FORGOTTEN TALES OF THE LAST GYPSY BLENDER 2.1 450Dexter, Michigan Sour Ale w featuring the notes of Smoked Salt & Citrus, 7% alcohol.

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BARR works closely with independent craft breweries to create a unique range of beers that changes every week.

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Fish lovers will love a recent update GLAZED COD TAIL ( for 2 persons) — Served on the bone with mushroom glaze, pickled flowers and beech mushroom. The dish is designed for two, so if you are going particularly for it, then you need to take a friend.

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“I am an extrovert by nature and see the meaning of life in communication and constant learning of everything new, — continues Thorsten. — Northern cuisine is very interesting, it forces you to think practically and take into account what is at hand. In Scandinavia, unlike warm countries where the seasons flow smoothly from one another, the seasons are clearly defined. Therefore, I always keep in mind that the season is about to end and I have to think carefully about what I will use now and what can be canned or pickled to use later, especially for the winter menu. We have a special fermentation room and cold storage for this”.

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Desserts, like all dishes, are rich in flavors and aromas of northern cuisine.

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“STÅ PANDEKAGE” — Crispy pancake with blueberry ice creme, pine and caramel from Norwegian brown cheese.

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SOUR CREAM SORBET — Vanilla, walnut, preserved pear and oak leaf oil;

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A stunning Ale is especially fitting for desserts: BARREL-AGED OLD NUMBSKULL — an amazingly complex beer that balances the caramel and toasted malt character of the Old Numbskull with notes of vanilla, oak, and bourbon from the barrel aged process.

Thorsten Schmidt

Thorsten Schmidt: “Many guests consider our menu to be perfect for the cold Scandinavian climate. Especially on a gray rainy day, you can slowly relax with friends. But I want to assure you — whenever you come and whatever you order, you won’t leave hungry or unhappy. And on a sunny summer day, you might even find yourself joining the swimmers outside”.

Restaurant Barr

www.restaurantbarr.com

Address: Strandgade 931401 Copenhagen Denmark

Opening Hours: Wednesday-Thursday 5:00pm – 11:00pm, Friday-Sunday 12:00pm–11:00pm

Contacts: booking@restaurantbarr.com; +45 3296 3293

Instagram: @barrcph


Editor-in-chief: Patricia Kolari
Text Writer: Marina Timoshevskaya
Technical Director: Evgeny Fedorov
Photos: EATWEEK GUIDE