An old historic villa from 1891 north of Copenhagen in the beautiful Hellerup is a dream location of The SAMUEL — one Michelin star restaurant, where the core is the symbiosis of food and wine in equal measure, while the wine gives birth to the future dish par excellence.
The restaurant is run and ownwed by the chef and sommelier Jonathan K. Berntsen and the maítre d’hotel Rasmus Knude.
Jonathan Berntsen, long-term owner and chef of Denmark’s famous Clou restaurant, which has retained a Michelin star for 6 years in a row, had decided to close it and move his creative forces to the chic Hellerup area.
Just three weeks before lockdown, The SAMUEL opened in a classic red-brick villa with a beautiful herb garden, summer terrace and vintage interior that before housed both a pharmacy and a pizzeria.
In the Photo: Owner, chef and sommelier Jonathan K. Berntsen
Jonathan can safely be called a “Champion chef”, who in fairly challenging conditions demonstrated his skill, determination and creativity achieving rapid success: after the lockdown was lifted with being open for only four months, the restaurant received its first Michelin star, becoming a record. But for Jonathan it wasn’t a big surprise — he’s always known what he’s wanted back to his childhood.
“I was one of those lucky kids who knew what they want to become when they grew-up, — says Jonathan. — So immediately after school I went to France to educate myself and gain experience. But I always knew that I wanted to get back to work in Denmark. When I finally came back at the age of 24, I opened my first restaurant Clou, which we closed right before the pandemic. During all those years I managed to establish myself, my cooking philosophy and concept, and opening The SAMUEL I clearly knew that the level of the new restaurant should be at least the same or even better and more exciting. I found a partner, and together we went to look at the premises. As soon as I stepped on the threshold, I immediately realized that this is exactly the place I was looking for, the ideal one for this project. I named the restaurant after my son, and the green-walled room “Josephine” after my daughter. Honestly, when you name a project after your children, it also becomes your brainchild, making you even more responsible for it, obliging you to do your best for its prosperity and success”.
The interior and decoration of the restaurant is entirely Jonathan’s vision. A big fan of the South European style with an abundance of sun, greenery, gold, sea azure, he brought this into the design of The SAMUEL.
The interior turned out to be very bright, full of sunlight and extremely festive, which is typical for southern European culture and temperament.
Jonathan himself is very fond of northern cuisine, but, as he himself admits, this is not the style he would like to cook himself. A big fan of classic southern classic cuisine, such as French, Italian, Spanish, he took this as the basis for the gastronomic concept of the restaurant.
Most seafood, game and vegetables are of local origin, but many products are brought from Southern Europe, for example, pulpy tomatoes, lemons in season delivered from the Amalfi coast, truffles and other things.
Jonathan performs a 14-course set menu that is full of creativity and the most distinct natural flavours.
Wine pairing, which entirely consists of rare and unique vintages, begins with champagne — 1998 Millésime, Guy Michel & Fils, Pierry, France.
Served with first-come appetizers:
Oyster – Passion – Ginger
Fungi – Cream
Toast – Caviar – Fermented Cream
Caviar by Rossini Caviar
Next comes Bread Selection served with aromatic Butter and Fresh Cheese.
Langoustine – Sea Salad – Beurre Blanc
Wine pair: 1986 Gewurztraminer, Jean Becker, Zellenberg, France
The SAMUEL has a rich collection of wines, Jonathan himself attaches great importance to the choice of wines and the combination of taste characteristics between “wine and food”.
“Unusually for many chefs, I first find an interesting wine item for the menu, and it sets the tone for the future dish. This is my philosophy, — continues Jonathan. — I have a twin brother, although we are not at all alike. He is seriously interested in wines, being a professional in his field. We worked together at Clou and actually he was the person who got me hooked on wine many years ago. Wine is so versatile, it can create a million shades, moods, combinations. Our current collection is over 400 wines, including rare vintages and champagnes. I’m a big fan of champagnes as well as Sherry wines myself. Moreover, we buy all the wines through distributors in Denmark, but we signed an agreement so that I can directly contact the winemakers and tell them how much and what items I need, it’s faster and more convenient for everyone”.
Caviar Pressé – Pasta – Bisque – Scallop
Wine pair: Un Jour 1911, André Clouet, Bouzy, France
Ethical Goose Foie Gras – Lemon – Demi Glace
Wine pair: 1990 Nierstein Pettenthal, Riesling Spätlese, Heyl Zu Herrnsheim, Rheinhessen, Germany
Next two moments are served together: Tuber Melanosporum Truffles – Cauliflower;
More Truffles – Consommé
Wine pair: 2001 St. Exupery, Chateau Malescot, Margaux, France
Morels stuffed with Ox Tail
Wine pair: 30 Year Amontillado Tradición, V..R.S. Bodegas Tradición, Jerez, Spain
Jonathan is a big fan of Sherry and his devotion to this drink has been recognized twice with awards such as winning the 2013 and 2019 Sherry Cup — the most prestigious international competition for food and wine pairing.
Cheeses From The Cabinet
Before desserts, guests are offered a pre-dessert in the form of a cheese platter.
Guests are invited to go downstairs in the lobby of the restaurant, where an excellent Cheese cabinet with best cheese “catch” of French, Italian, Spanish cheeses awaits.
For the tasting the guest himself chooses the varieties of cheese he prefers, after which the waiter will bring the chosen composition to the table.
Cheese perfectly complements: 2001 Clos Saint Urbain Rangen De Thann, Pinot Gris, Domaine Zind Humbrecht, Thann, France
“I’m certain saying that this is my only project and I want to fully concentrate on it, improving it constantly, — says Jonathan. — It was much easier for us to create this project after Clou, because I was already known in Danish gastronomy. Many of the regular guests who have visited us at Clou, have become The SAMUEL customers. Since the opening we’ve had a “full house” here, people came to see us “new and fresh”. And it’s so cool when foreign diners learn about us from many parts of the world. There are even such guests who specially buy a ticket, book a hotel and come in Copenhagen for 2 days just in order to dine at The SAMUEL. This is a great honor and it gives an unbelievable motivation to perfect all the time. To my mind, this one of the best recognitions for the chef”.
At the end of the evening fancy and striking desserts are served along with wine from the vintage collection of the restaurant:
Orange & Marcona Almond – Kumquats – Safron
Vanilla – Softice – Truffle
Wine pair: 1989 Héritage Familial, Pierre De Segonzac, Pineau Des Charentes, France
The Final — Chocolate Coated Confits
Jonathan K. Berntsen: “Our team consists of people who are passionate about a common cause. Everyone takes their work very seriously and responsibly, but nothing living is alien to us, we also love to have fun together, as everyone has their own hobby — someone sings, someone plays drums and give a small consents in a pause between working. This all makes us feel like one big family, a family besides family. And that’s a key for cohesive, efficient and successful work”.
Menu & Wine Pairing (8 glasses) — 3700 DKK
Menu without Wine Pairing — 2000 DKK
The Samuel
Address: Hellerupvej 40 2900 Hellerup Denmark
Opening hours: Wednesday-Saturday for dinner only
Contacts: Telephone hours 11.00 – 16.00
+45 21178556; mail@thesamuel.dk
Instagram: @jkb_the_samuel
Editor-in-chief: Patricia Kolari
Text Writer: Marina Timoshevskaya
Technical Director: Evgeny Fedorov
Photos: EATWEEK GUIDE
